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Class ~TT"£ 55 

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COPYRIGHT DEPOSfT. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 



BY 
h2& GENE ALLEN MARTIN 

DIRECTOR OP DOMESTIC ARTS DEPARTMENT OP 

THE MINNEAPOLIS Y.W.C.A.J DESIGNER, DEMONSTRATOR 

AND INSTRUCTOR IN MILLINERY 



ILLUSTRATED BY 

E. E. MARTIN 




BOSTON AND NEW YORK 

HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY 

($be 0itoer#&e f>it$$ Cambridge 
1921 



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-\ <e> 



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COPYRIGHT, 1921, BY GENE ALLEN MARTIN 
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 



/.^* 



0C1 2b 1921 



2/- 

©CU627451 



FOREWORD 

Hat-making is an art which may be acquired by 
any one possessing patience and ordinary ability. 
To make a hat for the trade is not as difficult as to 
make one for an individual; neither is it so high a 
phase of art. 

Many rules are given for crown-height, brim- 
width, and color, as being suited to different types 
of faces, but they are so often misleading that it 
seems best to consider only a few, since the becom- 
ingness of a hat almost invariably depends upon 
minor characteristics of the individual for which 
there are no rules. 

A girl or woman with auburn hair may wear 
grays — gray-green, cream color, salmon pink; a 
touch of henna with gold or orange; mulberry if 
the eyes are dark. 

The woman with dark hair and blue or dark 
eyes may wear any color if the skin is clear. 

One having dark hair and eyes and a sallow skin 
may find golden brown, a pale yellow or cream 
color becoming — possibly a mulberry if just the 
right depth. A hat with slightly drooping brim 



vi FOREWORD 

faced with some shade of rose will add color to the 
cheeks. No reds should be worn unless the skin 
is clear. No shade of purple or heliotrope should 
be worn by any one having blue eyes — it seems to 
make the blue paler. 

Any one having auburn hair, blue eyes, and a 
clear skin may wear browns, grays, greens, tan, 
blue, and black. Black should not be worn next 
the face unless the skin is brilliant. It is, however, 
very becoming to blondes, and to women whose hair 
has become quite white. 

A black hat is almost a necessity in every wom- 
an's wardrobe, and it may always be made becom- 
ing by using a facing of some color which is espe- 
cially becoming to the wearer — black and white is 
always a smart combination, but very difficult to 
handle. 

In regard to lines — it is known that a hat with 
a drooping brim takes from the height of the wearer 
and should never be worn by any one having round 
shoulders or a short neck. A hat turned up at the 
back would be much better. A narrow brim and 
high crown add height to the wearer. A woman 
with a short, turned-up nose should avoid a hat 



FOREWORD vii 

turned up too sharply from the face. Short people 
should avoid very wide brims. For the possessor 
of a very full, round face the high crown and nar- 
row brim, or a brim which turns up sharply against 
the crown on one side, or all around, should prove 
becoming. A tall, slender woman would do well to 
wear a drooping brim, wide enough to be in keep- 
ing with her height. There is one style of hat 
which seems to be, with various modifications, uni- 
versally becoming, and that is the bicorne, a form 
of the Napoleon style of hat. 

After all, experience is the best teacher. When- 
ever a hat is found to be especially becoming, one 
would do well to find out just why it is so and 
make a note of the color, size, and general outline. 
These notes are of value if kept for future refer- 
ence, whether hats are to be made for the shop or 
for home millinery. 

A hat is seldom becoming all the way around, but 
the aim should be to make it so. Over-ornamenta- 
tion should be guarded against, also too close har- 
mony in color until much experience has been 
gained. A rule by which to judge of the becoming- 
ness of a hat and to which there is no exception is 



viii FOREWORD 

this — the hat must enhance your looks. If you do 
not look more pleasing with it on than with it off, 
it is not as good a model for you as it might be. 

In planning or choosing a hat we unconsciously 
decide upon those colors and outlines which are an 
outward expression of ourselves. A hat, as well as 
any article of clothing, may express many things — 
dejection, happiness, decision, indecision, gayety, 
dignity, graciousness, a trained or an untrained 
mind, forethought, refinement, generosity, cruelty, 
or recklessness. How often we hear some one say, 
"That hat looks just like Mrs. Blank!" Clothing 
of any kind is an index to the personality of the 
wearer. A friend once said in my presence to a 
saleswoman who was trying to sell her a hat, "But 
I do not feel like that hat!" The saleswoman re- 
plied, "That's just it — you refuse to buy it because 
you do not feel like it, while I tell you that it is 
most becoming." All of which showed that this 
saleswoman had not the most remote idea of what 
was meant, and had a total lack of understand- 
ing. 

Clothes should be a matter of "feeling," and this 
same feeling is something vital and should be ca- 



FOREWORD ix 

tered to if our garments are to help set our spirits 
free. Why should we wear anything which is mis- 
leading in regard to ourselves? Let us look in the 
mirror each day and ask ourselves whether we look 
to be what we wish others to think we are. 

It is important in planning a hat to see it in 
broad daylight as well as under artificial light. It 
should also be tried on in a good light while stand- 
ing before a mirror, as a hat which may seem be- 
coming while sitting may not be so while standing, 
with the whole figure taken into consideration. 

To make one's own hats, using up old materials, 
stimulates originality and gives opportunity for 
expression. It is amazing to see how many new 
ideas are born when we start out to do something 
which we have thought quite impossible. It all 
helps to give added zest to life. Making one's own 
hats appeals to the constructive instinct of every 
woman aside from the matter of thrift, which 
should always be taken into consideration. Some 
one will say, "I would not wear any hat I might 
make." How often have we worn unbecoming hats, 
poor in workmanship, besides paying some one 
handsomely for the privilege. Let us try to form 



x FOREWORD 

some standard by which to judge of the worth of a 
hat instead of the maker's name. 

Before making a hat, the entire wardrobe should 
be carefully looked over to see with what the hat 
must be worn, and the kind of service we are going 
to expect from it. Every article of a costume 
should be related and harmonious as to color, out- 
line, and suitability. The result should be a perfect 
whole without a single discord. How often we see 
a green skirt, mustard-colored coat, and a bright 
blue hat — each article pleasing by itself, but atro- 
cious when worn collectively. Bright, gay little 
hats are pleasing when seen seldom, but we soon 
tire of one if it must be worn daily. 

Time and our best thought are well spent in plan- 
ning our apparel. The proper clothing gives us 
confidence and self-respect, and the respect of oth- 
ers. To be well dressed is to be free from the 
thought of clothes. We judge and are judged by 
the clothes we wear — they are an outward expres- 
sion of ourselves, and speak for us, while we must 
remain silent. 

"Simplicity is the keynote of beauty" — no one 
article of clothing should stand out too conspicu- 



FOREWORD xi 

ously, unless it is the hat. Nature uses bright 
colors sparingly. If you look at a plant, you find 
it dark near the ground, growing lighter near the 
top with its green leaves, and then the blossom; 
the glory is at the top. Everything in nature 
teaches us to look up. So the hat should be the 
crowning glory of a costume, the center of interest, 
and should receive the most careful attention as to 
becomingness, suitability, and workmanship. 



CONTENTS 

I. Equipment and Materials 1 

II. Covering Frame with Velvet 15 

III. Frames of Neteen and Crinoline 31 

IV. WmE Frames 35 
V. Round Crown op Wire 44 

VI. Hat Coverings 54 

VII. Trimmings 68 

VIII. Hand-Made Flowers 78 

IX. Remodeling and Renovating 100 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Showing Shaped Brim of Neteen with Ribbon- Wire 

Braces basted in Place 4 

Showing Method of fitting Fabric to Shaped Brim 16 

Showing Under Facing of Brim pinned over Wire 

ready to sew in place 16 

Various Processes 36 

Fancy Crown-Tip of Braid 44 

Rolling Wire Brim 44 

Round Crown of Whie 44 

One Method Of starting the Braid on Crown and 

sewing in Place ~ 54*^ 

Showing Method of covering Crown with Two-Inch 

Wide Bias Satin 64 

Ribbon Trimmings 7St 

Hand-Made Flowers 78 



MAKE YOUK OWN HATS 

CHAPTER I 

EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS 

Equipment 

Thimble 
Thread 
Needles 
Tape-measure 
Pins 

Tailor's chalk or pencil 
Milliner's pliers or wire cutters 
Scissors, large and small 
Paper for patterns 
Thimble — good quality 
Thread — Geneva lustre, black and white, number 

36. Colored thread as needed. 
Needles — assorted paper of milliner's needles, 8 

to 10. 
Tape-measure — of good quality sateen. 
Tailor s chalk — white and dark blue. 
Milliner's pliers — pliers which fit the hand, not too 
heavy, with blunt points, and sharp enough to 
cut a thread. 



2 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

Materials used to make Hat Frames 
Fabrics — 

Buckram 

Crinoline 

Cape net 

Neteen or Fly net 

Willow plate 
Wires — 

Cable 

Frame or brace wire 

Lace 

Tie 

Ribbon 

Sprung 
Paper for patterns — 

Heavy manila 

Buckram — 

Comes in black and white, about twenty-seven 
inches wide — a heavy stiff material, smooth on one 
side and rather rough on the other. It is more com- 
monly used for hat foundations than any other 
fabric. There is also a summer buckram, lighter 
in weight and smooth on both sides. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 3 

Crinoline — 

Comes in black and white, twenty-seven inches 
wide — a stiff, thin, open-meshed material, used to 
make soft hat frames, to cover wire frames, and in 
bias strips to cover edge wire after it is sewed on 
the fabric frame. 

Neteen or fly net — 

A stiff open-meshed material — comes in black, 
white, and ecru, one yard wide — a very popular 
material on account of its great pliability and light- 
ness. It is used for blocking frames and copying, 
the lines being much softer than when made with 
buckram. Very durable. 

Cape net — 

A light-weight, open-meshed material used for 
blocking and for soft frames. Not as pliable as 
neteen. 

Willow plate — 

A coarse straw-like material, light in weight, 
brittle, and very expensive, used in blocking; 
frames are also made from it without blocking. 



4 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

Must be dampened before using. Not recommended 
for amateurs. 

Wire comes in black, white, silver, and gilt, and 
is covered with cotton, mercerized cotton, and silk. 
It may be procured in single and double bolts. 

Cable — 

Largest wire used in millinery. In making wire 
frames, it is used as edge wire and sometimes for 
the entire frame. Being larger than frame wire, it 
makes a pleasing effect when used as part of the 
wire frame design, if it is to be covered with sheer 
material. 

Frame or brace wire — 

Used in making frames and is sewed on the edge 
of all buckram and fabric hat frames. 

Lace — 

Smaller than frame wire, used for wiring lace rib- 
bon and flowers, and sometimes for making an en- 
tire frame when a very dainty design is desired. 

Tie— 

Smallest wire used in millinery; comes wound on 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 5 

spools. Is used to tie other wires, and in making 
hand-made flowers. Comes in black, white, and 
green. 

Ribbon — 

A cotton ribbon about three eighths of an inch 
wide, with a fine wire woven through the center, also 
a wire on each edge. Used to wire ribbons. 

Sprung — 

An uncovered steel wire used to make halo brims ; 
is sometimes sewed on edge of buckram or other 
fabric brims, if the hat is unusually wide, or if a 
brim is to be especially stiff. It is occasionally 
used as an edge wire on wire frames, 

Hat Frames of Fabric 

Much care, thought, and patience must be exer- 
cised in making the frame of any hat. It is the 
foundation upon which we build, and if poorly made 
no amount of work can cover it up later. A hat 
must be right every step of the way. The frame is 
the first step, and so the most important. 

The simplest hat to make is the straight brim 
sailor with a square crown, covered with velvet. 
Such a model we will take up at first. 



6 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

Sailor hat frame — 

For convenience we will use the following dimen- 
sions: Width of brim, three inches; height of 
crown, three and one-half inches; length of crown 
tip, eight and one-half inches; width of crown tip, 
six and one-half inches, and headsize, twenty-four 
inches. 

Pattern for brim — 

Cut from a piece of manila paper fourteen and 
one-half by fourteen and one-half inches the largest 
possible circle ; the paper may be folded into halves, 
then quarters, then into eighths and creased. 

A round brim will not be of equal width all 
around from headsize wire, because the headsize 
wire must be oval to fit the head. The front and 
back will both be about an inch narrower than the 
sides. 

Headsize wire — 

To measure — This is especially important, for 
upon the accuracy of this measurement depends the 
comfort of the wearer; this is the foundation wire. 
Pass a tape measure around the head over the hair 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 7 

where the hat is to rest and add two inches to this 
measure. One is for lapping the ends and the other 
inch is to allow for lining and covering of hat which 
goes up into the headsize. 1 

As our headsize measure is twenty-four inches 
long, cut a piece of frame wire twenty-six inches 
long; this allows for the two inches just mentioned. 
Lap the ends one inch and fasten each end with tie 
wire. 2 Wire always laps one inch — no more, no 
less. 

To shape — With the hands inside, pull the circle 
until it is elongated to fit the head. This headsize 
wire must not press unduly upon any part of the 
head. 

To locate headsize on pattern- — Lay pattern 
flat, pin headsize wire on pattern with joining at 
back crease in paper, having the back and front of 
brim of equal width, and the two sides of brim of 
equal width. Mark all around headsize wire with a 
pencil. Remove wire and cut paper one-half inch 
inside this mark. 

To cut buckram brim — Lay pattern on smooth 
side of buckram, pin, and cut the edges very 

1 To cut wire see chapter IV. 

2 To tie wire see chapter IV. 



8 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

smoothly. Cut headsize same as pattern. Mark 
location of center back and center front. Remove 
pattern and with a hot iron press the buckram per- 
fectly flat, being careful not to break or make a 
sharp bend in the buckram, for if once broken it 
cannot be satisfactorily repaired. 

To sew headsize wire to brim — First note the 
relation of headsize wire to brim. If buckram is 
carefully cut, the wire may be pinned on one-half 
inch from edge. The brim has been cut round and 
will have the appearance of a round hat when worn 
and yet, on account of the oval headsize wire, the 
brim when finished will measure about three and 
one-half inches on each side and about two and one- 
half inches back and front. Pin wire on smooth 
side of buckram with lap at center back, also pin 
front and each side, being careful not to lose the 
shape of the headsize wire. Bring needle up from 
under side of brim close to wire, beginning at lap. 
Take stitch over wire to under side coming back 
through first stitch to right side. Take next stitch 
over wire one-fourth inch from first, coming back to 
right side. Repeat all the way around until lap is 
reached. Fasten thread by taking several stitches 
close together over ends of wire in order to join 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 9 

neatly and prevent their working loose. Slash buck- 
ram inside headsize wire every half inch and turn 
pieces up. This makes small flaps to which crown 
may be fastened later. The brim may now be tried 
on and changes made if necessary. 

Edge wiee — 

This is cut from frame wire and must be long 
enough to reach around edge of brim and lap one 
inch. Edge wire is always sewed on same side of 
brim as the headsize wire, which is usually the 
smooth side. Shape this wire to conform to shape 
of brim. Never depend on the hat or the stitches to 
hold a wire in place. Begin at center-back of hat 
holding wire toward you, and sewing from right to 
left. Hold wire as near the edge as possible, without 
letting it slip over the edge. Sew on with overcast- 
ing stitch, taking two stitches in same hole. Take 
the stitches just the depth of the wire. If too shal- 
low, the wire will slip off over the edge, or, if too 
deep, the wire will slip back away from the edge 
leaving it unprotected and liable to become broken 
and uneven-looking. A frame must be well made 
in every detail to produce satisfactory results when 
finished. 



10 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

To cover edge wire — All edge wire must be cov- 
ered with crinoline or a cheap muslin. Cut a strip 
of such goods on a true bias, three-eighths of an 
inch wide. Remove the selvage and stretch the 
strip. Bind the edge wire with it, holding it very 
tight. Sew close to wire using a stab stitch. 

Right side — wrong side — 

This stitch is made by taking a long stitch on 
right side and then a short back stitch on wrong 
side. Lap ends of crinoline one-fourth inch at finish, 
but do not turn ends under. 

Square crown — 

A square crown is one having a flat top, or one 
only slightly rounded, with the sides slightly sloping 
in towards the top. A crown of this type three or 
three and one-half inches in height would be at least 
one and one-half inches smaller at the top than at 
the bottom. Any crown made separately from the 
brim must be large enough to cover the headsize 
wire on the brim at the base. To eliminate any 
slashes or seams in the side crown, a paper pattern 
should be made. Following paragraphs explain 
how this is done. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 11 

Pattern for slanting side crown — 

Cut a piece of manila paper one-fourth inch 
wider than crown height and one-half inch longer 
than headsize wire measure. Slash across this paper 
in four equally distant places, within one-fourth 
inch of edge of bottom, then lap slashes at top a 
little more than one-fourth inch, or about enough 
to take out about one and one-half inches. Pin 
slashes. Lap ends of paper one-fourth inch and 
pin together. Place this pattern on brim with join- 
ing at back and pin to upturned slashes on brim. 
Try on to see if any alterations are necessary. It 
can be decided at this point and changes made 
should the crown be too sloping or too straight. 
An amateur should try on a frame often in order to 
be assured of lines and curves that are becoming. 
Remove pattern from brim and cut off from top and 
bottom any irregularities on the edge. 

TO CUT SIDE CROWN FROM BUCKRAM 

Remove the pins from the seam, allowing pins in 
slashes to remain. Lay pattern flat on smooth side 
of buckram, lengthwise of the material to take ad- 
vantage of the natural roll. Cut close to pattern; 
lap the ends one-fourth inch. Sew, using a fine 



12 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

back stitch close to each edge ; this makes two rows 
of stitching. Sew a piece of frame wire to top and 
bottom of side crown, keeping all joining at back. 
Use same method as in sewing edge wire on brim. 
Cover both wires with crinoline. 

Crown tips — 

The top of the crown may be kept soft-looking 
or it may be made of buckram, producing a stiff 
effect. Both methods will be given. 

Soft crown tip — First shape side crown to fit 
headsize wire on brim, which will be an ellipse. Cut 
piece of crinoline, the exact shape of the crown, plus 
one inch all around. Pin this over top, puffing it a 
very little, and sew with stab stitch close under 
wire. Cut surplus material off to one-fourth inch. 

Stiff crown tip, made of buckram — Lay top 
of side crown on smooth side of buckram and mark 
the shape with a pencil. Cut buckram one-half 
inch outside of this mark. Next, in order to fold 
down this stiff crown tip, it will be necessary to 
cut, from this half -inch of buckram outside the pen- 
cil line, small wedge-like pieces, about one inch 
apart. Cut them close to the line drawn. Pin this 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 13 

piece on top of crown, press flaps down and sew 
on with stab stitch. 

Crowns — 

If a round crown is to be used it is advisable to 
buy a ten-cent separate crown or a frame with a 
round crown. If an entire frame is purchased, re- 
move the crown and wire its bottom edge. After 
some skill has been acquired by the student of mil- 
linery, a round crown of fabric may be blocked by 
hand over a wire crown. 

To COVER ROUND CROWN — 

Pin material on top of crown with bias at front. 
Pull with the straight of the material and pin just 
below edge of curve. Sew one-half inch below this 
with stab stitch, trim material off close under this 
stitching. Remove pins. Fit a bias piece of mate- 
rial, using same method and measurements as for 
side crown of velvet sailor in chapter n. Sew the 
crown to brim before adjusting the side crown cov- 
ering. Pull this bias piece over crown and pin 
smoothly in place. Finish top and bottom of this 
band by turning the edges over a wire. Use same 
stitch as in finishing edge of facing on brim. 1 This 

*See chapter II. 



14 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

makes a neat finish for a hat which will demand 
little trimming. If the amateur finds it too diffi- 
cult to finish the bottom of a side crown in this way, 
the edge may be covered with a fold of material or 
a narrow ribbon ; the top may also be finished by a 
narrow ribbon, but finishing neatly with a wire 
should be mastered if possible, as this style of finish 
is used in many places. 



CHAPTER II 

COVERING FRAME WITH VELVET 

Material required one and one-half yards milli- 
ner's velvet or any velvet eighteen to twenty-four 
inches wide. If velvet used is thirty-six inches wide, 
one yard will be sufficient. 

TO COVER BRIM — 

Place corner of velvet at front of brim on top 
side (smooth side). Edgewire and headsize wire 
should always be on top of brim. Turn velvet over 
edge of brim and pin. Stick pins through at right 
angles to brim to avoid marring the velvet. Pin 
closely all around edge of brim, pulling material 
with the thread to remove any fullness. Do not 
pull tight enough to bend the brim. Trim velvet 
off one-fourth inch to turn under brim. Baste close 
to headsize wire on top with stab stitch. Cut velvet 
out inside of headsize wire, leaving a half inch to 
slash and turn up with the buckram. 

To SEW VELVET EDGE TO BRIM 

This should be done with a close overcasting 



16 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

stitch on the under side, being careful not to prick 
through to the right side of the velvet. It is some- 
times advisable in preparing the frame to stitch the 
buckram in from the edge about one-fourth inch 
with the sewing machine, using a long stitch. This 
stitching may then be used to put the needle through 
when sewing the velvet down. If the velvet seems 
thick and heavy-looking on under side after sewing, 
it may be pressed down with a hot iron. If done 
quickly and lightly, it will not show on the right 
side. 

To FACE UNDER SIDE OF BRIM — 

Pin velvet on under side, using same method in 
pinning as that on top of brim. This must be 
pinned very carefully. Cut off velvet all around 
edge, leaving a little less than one-fourth inch to 
turn under. Facings are usually finished at the 
edge with a wire. Cut a piece of frame wire the 
exact circumference of the brim, plus one inch for 
lap. Bend to shape of brim and pin under edge of 
velvet, beginning at the center back. Roll velvet 
over wire and bring out to edge. Pin in place all 
the way around before beginning to sew. Place 
pins in at right angles to brim. A piece of velvet 




SHOWING METHOD OF FITTING FABRIC TO SHAPED BRIM 




SHOWING UNDER FACING OF BRIM PINNED OVER WIRE 
READY TO SEW IN PLACE 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 17 

held in the left hand will prevent finger marks from 
showing on the velvet. Begin to sew at left of wire 
joining, while holding underside of brim towards 
you. Bring needle through from back close under 
wire. With the head of the needle press velvet along 
under wire to make a crease or sort of bed for the 
thread of the next stitch. Take nearly a half -inch 
stitch by placing needle close under the wire and 
coming through between the wire and the upper 
facing. Come back under the wire with a very small 
back stitch, being careful to adjust the wire as you 
sew, and to catch a little of the upper covering with 
each back stitch. When wire joining is reached, 
treat the lapped ends as one wire. Fasten ends se- 
curely by taking several small back stitches. Lace 
wire, being smaller than frame wire, is sometimes 
used to finish the edge of facing. It does not look 
as heavy, but is somewhat more difficult for a be- 
ginner to handle. 

To COVER CROWN TOP 

To cover the top, cut a piece of velvet with the 
bias at the front, same shape as top of crown plus 
one inch all around. Gather one-fourth inch from 
edge, place over top, equalize the gathers, pin in 



18 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

place, and sew with stab stitch over line of gather- 
ing. Make the edge lie as flat as possible and do 
not draw velvet too tight across the top. 

To COVER SIDE CROWN 

Cut a piece of velvet on a true bias two and one- 
half inches wider than height of crown. Pin this 
strip wrong side out around side crown to find 
length and to locate seam. Draw it snugly and pin 
seam on straight of material with warp thread. 
(Warp thread is parallel with selvage.) Remove 
velvet and stitch seam. Open it and press by draw- 
ing it over the edge of a hot iron. 

To SEW CROWN ON BRIM 

The simplest way to proceed is to sew the crown 
on the brim before adjusting the side crown cover- 
ing. Pin back, front, and each side of crown to 
brim, placing seams at back. Sew through up- 
turned flaps of brim and crown one-fourth inch 
from bottom wire. Stretch the velvet strip for 
side crown on the crown, placing seam at back, un- 
less trimming has been planned which will cover the 
seam better if it is placed at some other point. Turn 
top and bottom edges under to fit the side crown, 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 19 

and press bottom fold down close to brim. If this 
band has been fitted tight enough, it will not be 
found necessary to sew it. 

Edge of brim facing, when finished without 

WIRE — 

A brim covered with velvet or any fabric may 
also be finished underneath without a wire, the edges 
being slipstitched together. In this case, the under- 
facing would be turned under one-fourth inch and 
pinned in place all the way around before beginning 
to sew. Bring the needle through from underside 
of facing to the very edge of fold. Place point of 
needle directly opposite this stitch and take a small 
stitch in upper facing, then take a small stitch in 
under facing. Each stitch always begins just oppo- 
site the ending of preceding stitch, so that the 
thread between the two facings crosses the seam at 
right angles to edge of brim. This method makes 
the work look smooth, and also it will not pull out 
of place ; however, this style of finishing an edge is 
not popular and requires much practice. 

TO COVER NARROW BRIM SAILOR WITHOUT AN EDGE 
SEAM 

This method can be used satisfactorily only when 



20 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

the brim is narrow, and the fabric pliable. For 
convenience we will give measurements as for a 
two and one-half inch brim, flat sailor, outside edge 
measuring forty inches. Cut a bias piece of velvet 
forty inches long and seven inches wide. Fold this 
velvet through center lengthwise and stick pins 
every three inches through edge of fold at right 
angles to edge and close to edge. This is to mark 
the line that must be placed on the edge of the 
brim. If the velvet is not placed evenly, there will 
be found a greater amount of fullness on one side 
than on the other. Place velvet over the brim and 
pin on edge at points marked by pins. Stretch as 
tight as possible. On a brim of this width all of the 
fullness should be worked out. If this is found to 
be very difficult, lay the brim aside, with the velvet 
pinned on, for an hour or for overnight, and the 
velvet will be found to give a little more. Remove 
as much of the length as possible. Locate seam, re- 
move from frame, sew seam, and replace as before. 
Sew on top close to headsize wire, working out all 
the fullness possible ; pull under part up into head- 
size. Sew one-fourth inch above headsize wire onto 
the flaps, being careful not to pull the thread too 
tight or the headsize wire will be reduced in size. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 21 

Facings — 

A pleasing variety is sometimes obtained by using 
a colored underf acing on a black hat. ' The entire 
facing may be of a contrasting color or extend only 
from headsize wire to within an inch of the edge of 
the brim. In this case there could be a strip of 
material the same as upper facing an inch and a half 
wide finished at the edge of the brim with a wire. 
Then the colored facing would be finished over the 
edge of this with another wire. 

Brims covered with two kinds of fabric — 

A flat brim or mushroom shape is often covered 
by using two fabrics, which may be of the same 
color or of contrasting colors. Small pieces of old 
material may often be conserved in this manner and 
the hat at the same time have much charm. For in- 
stance, the edge of the hat could have a bias band 
of satin, two or more inches wide, stretched around 
the edge of the brim, with the rest of the brim cov- 
ered with velvet overlapping the satin and finished 
with a wire both on top and bottom, or only on one 
side. Underside of brim may be finished the same 
way, or the facing may be brought out even with 
the edge and finished with a wire. 



22 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

Shaped brim foundation — 

The simplest shaped brim is the mushroom style. 

TO MAKE PATTERN FOR BRIM 

Make a paper pattern the same as for the straight 
brim sailor. Measure the same for the headsize 
wire, join ends of wire, shape to fit the head, and 
pin on paper pattern of any desired width. To 
make the brim droop, slash the pattern from the 
edge to the headsize wire in four different places 
equally distant. Lap these slashes one-fourth inch 
at the edge, and pin. The pattern may also be 
slashed in eight or more different places if desired, 
the slashes being adjusted by lapping more or less 
according to the amount of droop which may be 
becoming. 

After the pattern is adjusted satisfactorily, mark 
with a pencil all around just inside the headsize 
wire. Remove the wire and cut the paper on this 
line. Cut pattern in two at back and lay out flat 
on smooth side of buckram, leaving pins in slashes. 
Cut close to outside edge and allow one-fourth inch 
for the lap at ends. Mark on buckram with pencil 
close to headsize line and cut one-half inch inside 
this mark. Lap ends one-fourth inch and backstitch 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 23 

closely at each edge of flap. Sew a strip of crino- 
line flat over seam to smooth it up. Sew headsize 
wire on place marked, which will be one-half inch 
from inside edge. Keep all joinings at back. Slash 
buckram from inside edge to headsize wire every 
half inch. Wire edge of brim and cover wire with 
crinoline — same method as used on sailor brim. 

TO COVER A MUSHROOM-SHAPED BRIM 

If not very drooping, it may be covered without 
making a seam in the material. To do this, begin 
by placing the corner of the fabric on top at the 
front of the brim. Pin the front, back, and each side, 
always pulling with the thread of the material, and 
pin closely at edge, with pins at right angles to the 
brim. If covered with georgette, satin or silk, which 
is pliable, the fullness may all be worked out with- 
out a seam. Baste close to headsize wire and finish 
edge by following same method as used in finishing 
sailor brim. Also follow same method with facing. 
If the material used is not pliable, or if the brim 
is too drooping to admit of stretching the material 
smoothly, a seam must be made at the back. The 
method would be the same as used in covering the 
rolled brim. 



24 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

Sheer materials — ■ 

In covering with anything as sheer as georgette, 
it is advisable to line with some other material first. 
The color could be made deeper by using a lining 
of the same color, or made paler by lining with 
white. The lining should be fitted and sewed on 
with the outside material. 

Pattern for hat with rolled or close-fitting 
brim — 

The pattern for any hat is first cut from a flat 
piece of paper, The headsize is marked as for flat 
sailor and the headsize wire pinned on. The pat- 
tern is then slashed in to headsize wire from the out- 
side edge, the slashes lapped over and pinned. If 
the hat is to be rolled more closely on one side than 
on the other, the greater number of slashes must be 
placed there. In this way the pattern can be ad- 
justed to any desired shape. It is an advantage 
sometimes to cut the paper pattern through in the 
back, leaving pins in the slashes, and lay out flat on 
another piece of paper for a new pattern. This 
ehminates some of the slashes and makes further 
experiments easier. Pattern-making is very impor- 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 25 

tant, and it is of extreme value to make as many- 
patterns as possible before cutting the foundation 
fabric. Changing a pattern the slightest sometimes 
makes a great deal of difference in its becomingness. 
Of course a brim may be changed by adding a slash 
or two in the buckram, or by inserting a V shape 
to give more flare, but the fewer seams the better 
for the hat frame. A rolled or close-fitting brim is 
more difficult to cover than a sailor or mushroom 
shape. 

TO COVEE A CLOSE-FITTING OR ROLLED BRIM — 

Place corner of material on top of brim at front 
and pin on the edge, Always use the same method 
of pinning on the edge as given in the first lesson. 
Draw the material down to the headsize wire and 
pin. Work the material out smoothly toward the 
left and pin at the edge; also at the headsize wire. 
Then proceed in the same way toward the right, 
always pinning closely. Be sure to keep the mate- 
rial tight and smooth both at edge and at the head- 
size wire. Allow the fullness to go where it will. 
The seam should be located at the center back. Cut 
away all superfluous material, allowing three- 
eighths of an inch seam at the center back. Turn 



26 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

the raw edges under away from each other at the 
seam and slipstitch together neatly. 

To SLIPSTITCH SEAM 

Bring needle through edge of fold on one side 
and enter the needle through edge of fold on other 
side exactly opposite. Slip needle along in this fold 
one-eighth of an inch, then bring the needle through 
to the edge of the fold and take a stitch one-eighth 
of an inch long in the fold of the other side, always 
being careful to begin the stitch exactly opposite 
the end of the one preceding. Try to cut the mate- 
rial out from inside the headsize wire in one piece 
so that it may be used for something else. Examine 
the material carefully to make sure that it fits per- 
fectly. Baste with a stab stitch close to the head- 
size wire on the outside; remove all pins as soon as 
possible. After basting this, you will sometimes find 
that the material needs a little more adjusting at the 
edge. Turn the velvet over the edge one-fourth inch 
and sew down with an overcasting stitch. 

To GLUE VELVET TO THE BRIM 

When there is a decided roll to a brim, it is 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 27 

sometimes most difficult to keep the velvet smooth 
and to make it lie close to the brim, so we resort 
to milliner's glue. Do not use glue on satin, or on 
any fabric thinner than velvet, or on any frame 
other than buckram. Care should always be taken 
to have the smooth side of the buckram on top when 
the velvet is to be glued on. 

After fitting the velvet carefully and sewing the 
seam in the back, remove the pins from the outer 
edge and gather the velvet up inside the headsize 
where it is to be held while the glue is being spread 
on the buckram. The glue must be spread very 
evenly. It will make a neater job to glue the seam 
of the velvet open before going further. Be very 
careful to keep the glue away from the right side 
of the velvet. Next, rub the glue on the frame with 
a stiff brush until it is smooth, then spread the 
velvet back into place, pressing and smoothing it 
with the hands from the headsize wire out. Watch 
it carefully for any places which have not sufficient 
glue, as the material may be raised before it is dry 
and more glue added. Do not sew the edge until 
the glue has dried. Usually it is only the material 
on the upper side of the brim which needs gluing 
down. The facing may be put on as desired. Some- 



28 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

times the top of a crown has indentations, and then 
the velvet may be glued to stay in place. 

The under or outer facing may be fitted to a 
rolled or close-fitting brim more easily than the 
upper. Beginning at the front with the corner of 
the material, pin at the edge and at the headsize 
wire. Keep the material smooth; work from right 
to left, and then from left to right. Work the ma- 
terial around to where the seam is to be made. Cut 
away all superfluous material, allowing three- 
eighths of an inch for a seam. Slipstitch together 
as on the top and finish the edge over wire. When- 
ever possible a seam should be made on the straight 
of the material. 

A SHIRRED CROWN OF FABRIC 

There are two methods 6f making a shirred 
crown of fabric in which taffeta, satin, georgette, or 
velvet may be used. Velvet is especially beautiful 
made up in this way. The first method is the pre- 
ferred. Cut a circular piece of material, having a 
diameter the length of the crown from front to back, 
measuring over the top from the headsize wire, plus 
four inches. 

On the wrong side of the material mark circles 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 29 

(concentric) one-half inch apart, after first having 
marked a circle in the center about three inches in 
diameter. Gather on the line of each circle with a 
fine running stitch and bring the thread through to 
the right side as each circle is completed. 

Locate the exact center of the crown top and cut 
a small hole at this point. Pull thread of the small- 
est circle up tight. This will form a bag which 
should be pulled down through the hole made at 
the center of the crown top and sewed securely in 
place. The material should be pinned down at four 
equal points at the edge of the crown, the threads 
of the other circles pulled up until the material fits 
the crown snugly. Adjust the fullness evenly and 
sew in place. This is an excellent way to use up 
old material which would otherwise show marks 
or any other defects. 

The second method does not make as pleasing an 
effect, but may be used when the material happens 
to be in such shape that a circle cannot be cut 
from it. A bias strip about eight inches wide and 
long enough to reach around the crown, plus three 
or four inches, should be joined on the lengthwise 
thread of the material. The first shirring or gather- 
ing should be one-half inch from the edge, the addi- 



30 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

tional threads should be run in evenly every half 
inch. The first thread near the edge should then be 
drawn up as tightly as possible and this edge pushed 
through the hole in the top of the crown. This 
method will require a somewhat larger opening than 
the first. The material is then drawn down on the 
outside and pinned to the bottom of the crown; 
the threads are then pulled tight and firm and are 
fastened off. Next adjust the gathers evenly and 
sew in place. 



CHAPTER III 

FKAMES OF JSTETEEN AND CKINOLINE 

Lay the pattern on the neteen in such a way as to 
bring the bias where the greatest amount of roll is 
to be, then cut making the same allowances as if 
cut from buckram. This material should be used 
double to secure the best results. Cut one thickness 
first and pin this on another piece in such a way 
that the warp thread of one piece will lie parallel to 
the woof thread of the other. Cut the two pieces 
the same size and before removing the pins baste 
closely all over the brim with fine thread, making 
one inch stitches. Fine thread should be used for 
this as a coarse thread might show through the cov- 
ering. 

To JOIN THE SEAM IN THE BACK 

Insert one thickness between the other two ends, 
and backstitch closely. This method ought to make 
a fairly smooth seam. Cover the seam with a strip 
of crinoline to smooth it up. 



32 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

To SEW EDGE WIRE ON NETEEN — 

It is difficult to sew edge wire on neteen. A good 
result is obtained, however, by sewing the wire 
directly on the edge or by covering the edge first 
with crinoline and sewing the wire on it. Great care 
must be taken in handling neteen to preserve the 
shape, as it is very easily stretched and pulled out 
of shape while sewing on the edge wire. The same 
method is used in covering a neteen frame as with 
the buckram frame. The velvet, if velvet is used, 
can be glued on, but the material is so porous that 
it is not very satisfactory. Neteen and crinoline 
make excellent foundations for braid hats, as these 
materials are light in weight, soft, and pliable. 
They are also very satisfactory for children's hats. 

To MAKE A TURBAN FRAME OF NETEEN OR CRINO- 
LINE 

Make the side crown from a bias fold of neteen 
or crinoline, the height desired, plus one inch. The 
length should be the headsize measurement plus 
one-half inch. This allows for a tiny flare next to 
the face which is usually more becoming. Join 
the ends of bias strips on the warp thread. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 33 

To WIRE TURBAN FLARE — 

Sew the headsize wire one inch from the bottom, 
being careful not to stretch or full the material. 
Cut another piece of brace wire one or two inches 
larger than headsixe wire and sew on the raw edge 
at the bottom, stretching the fabric to fit if a flare 
is desired. A roll may be made by slightly fulling 
the fabric on to the wire, which must be smaller 
than for a flare. If the side of the crown is to be 
curved in slightly, this is easily done by taping the 
side about halfway between the top and the bottom, 
drawing the tape as tight as is necessary. Next pin 
the tape and sew in place. Sew another wire high 
enough above the tape to make the crown the re- 
quired height. If the crown is to be flared a little 
at top, sew the wire inside and stretch the material 
as much as desired. If the top of the crown is to be 
drawn in, sew the wire on the outside, making the 
crown slightly smaller at the top. If sufficient mate- 
rial is allowed at the top the extra amount may be 
drawn up over a small circle of wire to make the 
crown top, but an extra piece cut for this purpose is 
more satisfactory. A smooth crown may be made 
from an extra piece sewed over the top after the 
side is finished. 



34 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

Covering turbans — 

Turbans are becoming to many types and are 
particularly suitable for the matron. Gay coverings 
are used on them often when they would be out of 
place on a larger hat. However, any material may 
be used ; braids, alone or in combination with fabric. 
Velvets, georgette, satin, and taffeta are used. A 
turban covered entirely with flowers sewed down 
flat makes a charming hat : the lower edge invari- 
ably looks better if first bound with a bias piece of 
velvet no matter what the covering may be — it 
seems to give a softer look around the face. A round 
crown of buckram makes a good turban frame if a 
bias strip of crinoline an inch wide is sewed to the 
lower edge to give a little flare. A frame of this 
kind may be draped with velvet, satin, georgette, or 
any pliable material, and when skillfully done the 
effect is beautiful indeed. 



CHAPTER IV 
WIRE FRAMES 

Equipment 

Brace wire or frame wire 
Tie wire 
Sprung wire 
Pliers 

To OPEN COIL OF WIRE — • 

Hold the coil in the left hand; unfasten and 
allow it to loosen gradually in the hand; pass it over 
the arm and knock it until the coils separate. 

To cut wire — 

Place wire firmly and squarely between the jaws 
of the pliers at the point where they cut and press 
straight down. Be sure to cut with the first at- 
tempt; otherwise, if the wire is haggled off, the 
pliers are injured and the covering loosened at the 
ends of the wire which will make it impossible to 
tie them together. 



36 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

TO STRAIGHTEN WIRE — 

Pass the wire between the thumb and finger with 
a sweeping motion. A piece of cloth or paper may 
be held in the hand if the fingers become tender. 
Do not make small dents in the wire in attempting 
to straighten it, as it will be impossible to remove 
them. 

To tie wire — 

Ends of brace wire parallel. 

Right angles tied diagonally. 

Brace wire tied without use of tie wire. 

Before beginning to make a frame of wire, time 
will be saved and necessary experience gained by 
tying a few short pieces of wire, until a strong 
joint can be made. Cut fifty pieces or more of tie 
wire three-quarters of an inch long. Cut two pieces 
of brace or frame wire two or three inches long. 
Lap the ends of the heavy wire one inch, then lap 
one of these pieces of tie wire around once as close 
to the end of the brace wire as is possible. Hold in 
the left hand and with the end of the pliers grasp 
the ends of the tie wire as close to the brace wire as 
possible and twist tightly until the joint feels firm. 
Place pliers back a little and twist several times 




TO TIE TWO WIRES WITH TIE 
WIRE 



TO TIE TWO WIRES DIAGONALLY 
WITH USE OF TIE WIRE 




METHOD OF MAKING PAPER 
PATTERN FOR DROOPING BRIM 



METHOD OF PINNING FABRIC ON 
DROOPING BRIM 




BRAID-COVERED BRIM SHOWING 
METHOD OF FILLING IN SHORT 
LENGTHS WHEN THE DIFFERENCE 
IN WIDTH OF THE TWO SIDES IS 
VERY GREAT 



PATTERN PINNED IN PLEATS 
FOR SHAPED BRIMS OF FABRIC. 
ILLUSTRATION SHOWS PATTERN 
PINNED ON BUCKRAM READY 
TO CUT 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 37 

until a little cable is formed. Qut this off, leaving 
an eighth-inch end. Press this end down flat with 
the jaws of the pliers. Tie the other end in the 
same manner. Practice this until a satisfactory 
joint can be made with ease, before attempting to 
make a frame of wire. 

TO FASTEN TWO PIECES OF BRACE WIRE DIAG- 
ONALLY 

TO FASTEN TWO PIECES OF BRACE WIRE WITHOUT 
THE USE OF TIE WIRE 

Hold the strand of wire against the wire to which 
it is to be fastened, at right angles to it, with about 
two and one-half or three inches extending beyond 
the point at which the twist is to be made. Press 
the end straight backward, close to and parallel 
with the other end of the wire. The end should pass 
once and a half around. Use the jaws of the pliers 
to press parallel wires in the twist together, and to 
tighten the twist. Cut the end off close and use 
the pliers to press the end down flat. 

To MAKE WIRE FRAME FOR HAT HAVING FLAT BRIM 
AND SQUARE CROWN — 

Always remember that it will greatly simplify 



38 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

the work first to make a paper pattern for every 
hat. A hat is seldom made with all sections of the 
brim of equal width, and this is one important rea- 
son why it is more satisfactory first to make a paper 
pattern. 

Pattern for brim — 

Make a pattern the same as for a straight-brim 
sailor, being careful to fold the pattern in halves 
from front to back, and to crease sharply. Fold the 
halves into fourths and the fourths into eighths and 
crease. This is to determine the position of the wire 
spokes in the brim. The eight creases will corre- 
spond to the eight spokes in the brim; this is the 
correct number of spokes. 

Headsize wire for wire frame — 

A wire frame needs two headsize wires, so cut 
two just alike, remembering always that the head- 
size wire is the most important wire in any hat, as 
the comfort of the wearer depends upon the meas- 
urements taken for this wire. Measure as for the 
headsize in a fabric hat, lapping the ends one inch, 
and tying them. Try on these wires and shape to 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 39 

fit the head. They should usually be elongated two 
inches. 

Pin the headsize wire on the paper pattern, 
placing the joining on the back crease and the exact 
center front of wire on the front crease; next pin 
the sides securely, being careful to keep the wire 
shaped to fit the head. Allow one-half inch inside 
of wire and slash every half inch out to headsize 
wire. The pattern may now be tried on the head 
for any necessary alterations. The brim pattern 
may be added to or cut away. 

Working measurements needed — 

Make a pencil mark on the pattern around the 
headsize wire. Before removing the wire, mark the 
eight different points where it crosses the creases 
in the paper pattern. Remove the wire from the 
pattern. 

Sticks for brim — 

Straighten and cut four pieces of frame wire the 
length of the diameter of the brim plus three inches 
for finishing. Place one of these sticks across the 
headsize wire from front to back on the marks made 
by the pencil, allowing the ends to extend an equal 



40 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

length. Fasten to the headsize wire with tie wire. 
Place the next stick from side to side, joining on 
the pencil marks. The two remaining sticks when 
placed on the remaining marks divide the circle into 
eighths. This is called the skeleton of the brim ; the 
wires are named front, back, right side, left side, 
right side front, right side back, left side front, left 
side back. The position of these ends or spokes 
should correspond to the creases in the paper pat- 
tern, and the length of each one should be deter- 
mined by measuring the corresponding crease on 
the pattern. 

Edge wire — 

Cut a circle of brace wire the exact length of the 
circumference of the brim plus one inch for lap 
and tie. Lay this close to the edge of the pattern 
and mark on it with pencil where each crease touches 
it, always keeping the tied ends on the back crease. 
If these measurements are carefully made, the brim 
will be exactly like the pattern. 

To JOIN EDGE WIRE — 

Begin at the back and place the mark on the 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 41 

edge wire on the back spoke at the pencil mark. 
Twist the end of the spoke once and a half around 
the edge wire, using the jaws of the pliers to tighten 
the twist. Cut the end off close and press the cut 
end flat with the pliers. Next finish the center front 
spoke, then the sides and those in between. A great 
deal depends upon accuracy in making an accepta- 
ble wire frame. Add as many circles of wire be- 
tween the edge wire and the headsize wire as de- 
sired, fastening to the spokes with tie wire. Keep 
all wire laps at the back on the center spoke. 

Collar of beim — - 

Cut the wire inside of the headsize wire in the 
center. Twist these wires once and a half around 
the headsize wire, bringing the ends up at right 
angles to the headsize wire. Join the second head- 
size wire to the top of these wires, using the same 
method as for joining the edge wire. This collar 
may be made very low or as high as the wires will 
permit. A separate crown of wire is not always used 
in a hat covered with very sheer material or sheer 
braid. In such a case the collar would be made as 
high as possible to make a support for the crown 
trimming. 



42 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

Square crown for wire frame — 

Straighten the brace wire and cut four sticks or 
pieces long enough to reach from the base of the 
crown at the front up over the proposed crown to 
the base of the crown at the back, allowing eight 
inches for finishing. Cut and join a small circle of 
brace wire — about three inches in diameter — for the 
crown top. Lay the four sticks across this circle 
dividing it into eight equal sections as at the begin- 
ning of the brim, and join to the sticks with tie wire. 
Cut a piece of brace wire one inch smaller than the 
headsize wire. Lap the ends and; tie this wire. 
Elongate slightly. Join to the sticks outside of the 
small circle. Keep all lapped ends of circles on the 
center back spoke. Bend spokes down over this 
circle, then measure down from this circle for the 
height of crown and mark on spokes with pencil. 
Be very accurate. 

Base wire for crown — 

Measure and cut a length of brace wire one-half 
inch longer than for the headsize wire. Lap the 
ends one inch and join with tie wire. The base wire 
of any separate crown must be large enough to fit 
over the headsize wire on the brim. Place this 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 43 

circle, after having shaped it like the headsize wire, 
on the inside of the spokes at the point marked, be- 
ginning at the center back, and finish as any edge 
wire by twisting the ends of the spokes once and a 
half around the wire. Press the wires down tight 
with the pliers. Cut the ends off close and press flat 
with the jaws of the pliers. Many more circles 
may be added and tied on with tie wire if desired; 
also more spokes may be added. This would be 
desirable if the frame is to be covered with braid, or 
if used for blocking fabric for frames. 

Transparent hats — 

If a wire frame is to be covered with thin mate- 
rial, great care and thought should be given to the 
frame, for it then forms part of the design of the 
hat. A finer wire is sometimes used in this case, or 
a beautiful frame may be made for thin materials 
by using a satin-covered cable wire, and using as 
few wires as possible. It may seem advisable after 
a wire frame is made to cut away some of the wires. 



CHAPTER V 

BOUND CROWN OF WIRE 

A round crown is one which rounds from tip to 
base. First straighten, measure, and cut four sticks 
of brace wire, as for square crown, of the ordinary 
length, allowing for finishing. Cut and join the 
ends of a short piece of brace wire five or six inches 
long. This makes a small circle for the top of the 
crown. Begin by tying the sticks across this circle 
under it, dividing it into halves, quarters, and 
eighths, being careful that the divisions are made ac- 
curately and that the sticks extend an equal length 
from the circle. Keep these wires flat across this 
circle. The sticks may now be curved down. It is 
sometimes found easier to attach the base wire at 
this point before adding other circles. 

Base wiee — 

Cut a piece of brace wire one-half inch longer 
than the wire used for the headsize wire. Lap the 
ends one inch. Make this the same shape as the 
headsize wire and test the size by trying it on over 




ROLLING WIRE BRIM. EIGHT SPOKES MORE MAY BE USED AND AS 
MANY CIRCLES AS WISHED, ACCORDING TO THE COVERING USED 




ROUND CROWN OP WIRE 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 45 

the headsize wire on the brim for which the crown is 
made. An ordinary height for. a round crown would 
be seven inches from tip to base wire, but to be safe, 
it is always better to measure the head. Sometimes, 
on account of an abundance of hair or a high coif- 
fure, a greater height is needed. If the base wire is 
elongated to fit the head, the side measurement from 
the tip to the base of the crown will be found shorter 
than from the tip to the front and the back. It will 
be most helpful to take an old crown which has an 
elongated headsize and either measure it and work 
from the measures or else work over it. 

The crown must be even at the bottom when 
finished, and when placed upon the table must rest 
evenly. The base wire may be tied with tie wire 
on the front and back spokes and on each side spoke 
until the circles between it and the crown tip are 
added. It will then be found easy to adjust it before 
finishing off the wires; i.e., the crown may be made 
higher or lower. 

ClECLES OR HOOPS — 

Add three circles of wire between the base wire 
and the small circle at the top. The first circle just 
above the base wire should be of the same size. Keep 



46 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

all wire laps at the back. The other two circles will 
conform to the shape of the crown and will be found 
to be a little further apart at the front and back 
than at the sides. 

To FINISH THE BASE OF THE CROWN — 

The spokes of the crown may now be turned out 
sharply where the base wire is to be fastened and 
finished off the same as the edge wire on the brim. 

A SHAPED WIRE FRAME MADE IN ONE PIECE — 

The simplest wire frame which is shaped at all 
is the mushroom shape or one that droops a little. 
Before beginning this hat it will be found easier to 
have a pattern for the brim, but it will not be neces- 
sary to make a pattern for the crown, which may be 
either round or square, and for which directions have 
already been given. 

Pattern for brim — 

Make a pattern of manila paper for the brim the 
same as for a fabric shape, following the same direc- 
tions. It may droop only a very little or fit quite 
close. In either case the method is the same. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 47 

Pin the headsize wire on this pattern and try on 
to shape. Mark on the wire at the point where the 
creases touch the wire. It is important not to hurry 
at this point. Make many patterns and then choose 
the most becoming one. After the pattern is per- 
fected, crease it sharply the same as in the sailor 
brim. Take all the measurements from this pattern 
and use them in marking the wires. This brim pat- 
tern is not needed until the crown has been made. 
In making a wire frame in one piece, we begin at 
the top of the crown and work down. 

Crown — 

Measure four sticks as for the crown in the pre- 
ceding lesson, plus the width of the brim, plus six 
inches for finishing. This is ample to finish both 
ends of wire, but on account of the ends easily be- 
coming frayed it is better to have a generous al- 
lowance. Begin at the crown tip and work down 
until ready for the headsize wire. The last wire is 
or should be of the same size as the regular head- 
size wire. Place the lap of the headsize wire on the 
back spoke of the crown and join by twisting the 
spokes once and a half around. Join the front and 
remaining spokes in the same way, being careful 



48 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

to join where the wire was marked at the creases 
on the pattern. 



Brim — 

We are now ready to make use of the measure- 
ments taken from the pattern. Mark the length 
of each spoke with a pencil; the distance they are 
to be apart should be marked on the edge wire. 
These measurements are taken from the pattern. 
Finish the edge the same as the sailor brim. Add as 
many circles between the edge wire and the head- 
size wire as desired. 

We have now made in wire the first variation 
from a perfectly flat brim. Always make a pattern 
before making a wire frame except when copying 
and then measurements may be taken from the hat 
to be copied. Here are some of the reasons why the 
pattern is important: first, it may be tried on and 
this helps to decide if the style is becoming, before 
working it out in wire; second, the position of the 
wires may be determined and marked on the paper 
pattern; third, the more work done from a paper 
pattern the easier it will be to copy; fourth, it trains 
the eye, thus making free-hand work much easier. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 49 

A ROLLING BRIM — 

Whether the hat is made in one piece or with a 
separate brim, the same method is used. First, as 
always, the paper pattern. If the brim is to roll 
closely on one side and much higher than on the 
other, extra wires will be needed to fill the space. 
The place for these may be determined on the paper 
pattern. They may go all the way around, being 
brought more closely together on the low side or 
only part way around as in the illustration. 

Wire frame making requires much patience and 
practice. It is an art just as all millinery is an art. 
Lines are all important. Because of this I urge 
much pattern making. Even though one may not 
have the fundamental principles of art, something 
really good often develops and we find we have 
built better than we knew. It stimulates originality, 
but we must work without fear. 

TO COLOR WIRE FRAMES — 

Wires come in both black and white. A white 
frame may be colored to match any sheer fabric 
used for its covering. It will be found to be more 
simple to color the frame after it is made. Any of 
the cold or soap dyes may be used. If these are not 



50 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

available, a piece of velveteen soaked in alcohol 
and rubbed on the frame will give of its color suffi- 
ciently to tint the wire. Crepe paper may also be 
used, or water-color paints. Rouge may be used 
effectively if moistened. There are also gold and 
silver wires which may be used for frames when de- 
sired, and which will add to the beauty of the design. 
If they cannot be purchased, a frame of white wire 
may be gilded by using liquid gilt, applying it to 
the frame with a small brush. 

Halo hat brims — 

Halo brims may be made from any fabric, but 
to be effective the material should be sheer. Ma- 
lines, nets, georgette crepe, or chiffon are all used 
to good effect in making this style of hat. Good- 
looking halo brims have been made from old geor- 
gette waists, using the back for the brim and the 
front and sleeves for the crown. 

Only two wires are used in making this brim, 
the edge wire and the headsize wire. The size of the 
brim is to be determined and then a hoop of sprung 
wire cut just the length of the circumference of the 
brim. This wire is uncovered; the ends just meet 
and are joined by the use of a little clamp, the ends 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 51 

being inserted and pressed down with the jaws of 
the pliers. 

Place the material from which the brim is to be 
made upon a flat surface. If of maline, several 
thicknesses may be used. Fasten this material down 
to the table slightly with pins or thumb tacks. Lay 
a circle of sprung wire on the material and pin in 
place. Begin by pinning the back, front, and then 
each side, being careful not to pull the wire out of 
shape. Take the work up and pin the material 
closely all around the edge. Cut off, allowing one- 
quarter of an inch to turn over the wire. Sew to 
the wire closely with an overcasting stitch or with 
a running stitch just inside of the wire. The edge 
may be bound with a fold of the same material, a 
fold of satin or one row of braid. 

Headsize wire foe halo brim — 

This headsize wire is made of frame wire. First 
measure, then cut, join ends, and shape as for any 
hat. Lay the headsize wire on the material, having 
the joining at the back. The front and the back of 
the brim, if of equal width, will be somewhat nar- 
rower than the side because of the elongated head- 
size wire ; however, the headsize wire may be placed 



52 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

on the brim in any position desired. Pin in place 
and sew with an overcasting stitch. Trim the mate- 
rial inside the headsize wire, leaving an extension of 
one-quarter of an inch to turn over ; it will be found 
necessary to sew this down over the wire, making 
the edge more secure. 

Another method of making a halo brim is ac- 
complished by cutting a piece of material on the 
bias, twice as wide as the brim and as long as the 
circumference. Stretch this piece of material, then 
pin the center of the strip over the edge wire, gather 
the raw edges to fit the headsize wire and sew in 
place. This method does not make a smooth brim, 
but is more quickly made. When two thicknesses 
of sheer material are used for halo brims a very 
pretty effect is obtained by placing flat flowers, 
petals of flowers, or feathers between the two ma- 
terials. 

Crown for halo brim — 

This may be very sheer, although a halo brim 
may be used on a braid or satin crown if desired. 
A wire crown for a halo brim usually consists of 
a mere collar of frame wire several inches high. 
This is sewed to the headsize wire. The covering 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 53 

for the crown is usually made in the shape of a 
circle about fourteen inches in diameter, with the 
same number of thicknesses as the brim. Gather 
one-quarter of an inch from the edge, adjust full- 
ness and sew to the headsize wire. The height of 
the crown depends upon the style of hair dressing. 
Place a band of the same material as the crown, or 
a narrow ribbon, around the base of the crown for 
trimming and to conceal the wires. A wired bow of 
the sheer material may be used very effectively. 
(See chapter on "Bows.") 



CHAPTER VI 

HAT COVERINGS 

TO COVER WITH BRAID 

Great care and patience must be exercised in cov- 
ering a hat with straw braid. The lines which are 
to be emphasized should be carefully studied, as 
there are several methods used in laying the braid 
on the frames. (See illustration.) 

The stitch used for sewing braid is always the 
same — a very short stitch on the right side, and a 
stitch one-quarter of an inch long on the wrong 
side. The thread must not be pulled too tight, or 
the position of the stitches may be seen ; also always 
match the thread to the straw. Straw braid may be 
sewed to a willow, buckram, neteen, or crinoline 
frame except when a very soft hat is desired; it 
may then be sewed and shaped over a wire or buck- 
ram frame, but not on to it, as it is to be removed 
from the frame after sewing; or, if the braid is 
coarse, it may be sewed to a wire frame which has 
been previously covered with crinoline or mull. 
(See illustration.) 

Many hats have a brim faced with straw, while a 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 55 

fabric is used on top. In this case the braid must 
be put on first in order that the stitches may be 
taken through the brim, which the fabric on top 
will cover. 

To PIN IN PLACE ON THE FRAME 

Place the outer edge of the straw even with the 
outer edge of the brim, beginning at the center 
back, allowing three inches to extend to the right. 
Pin in place and baste all the way around until the 
center back is reached. Curve the second row grad- 
ually up from the center back; do not make an 
abrupt curve, until the correct lap is reached, usu- 
ally one-eighth of an inch. There will be found a 
thread at the edge of most braids which may be 
pulled up to take out the extra fullness when sewed 
on a curve. The outside edge of the first row must 
be left free for the edge of the fabric, which covers 
the other side, to be slipped under. Do not begin 
sewing until the second row is basted in place. 

To sew — 

Bring the needle through the edge of the braid 
at the lap from the under side and take a tiny stitch, 
stabbing the needle through the braid and the buck- 
ram ; the small stitch on the right side will be hidden 



56 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

if the thread is not pulled too tight. Take a stitch 
on the wrong side from one-quarter to one-half an 
inch in length, depending upon the width and qual- 
ity of the braid. Continue basting and sewing the 
braid until the headsize is reached and the braid ex- 
tends up above the headsize wire one inch. If the 
brim is wider at some points than at others, the 
wider side must be filled in with short strips fol- 
lowing the same curve, being careful that the ends 
are left long enough to extend up beyond the head- 
size wire one inch. When the brim is very much 
wider at some points, short pieces of braid may be 
worked in at intervals as the braid is sewed; this 
would not make such an abrupt curve, and the gen- 
eral lines of the braid would be more pleasing. 

When one side of the brim is to be covered with 
fabric, fit this to the brim, baste at the headsize wire 
and cut the edge, allowing one-quarter of an inch 
to lap over the edge. Remove the basting from the 
first row of braid and tuck the edge of the fabric 
under. Pin and slipstitch to place through the straw. 

Both sides of brim covered with braid — 

Allow the first rows to project slightly beyond 
the edge of the brim both on the top and the bot- 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 57 

torn. These edges may be brought together with a 
small slanting stitch, or if preferred the edge may 
be first bound with a bias piece of satin, or with a 
row of braid or gay-colored material. If the edge 
of the brim is bound, the edges of the first rows 
of braid at the top and bottom would not meet. The 
bound edge thus showing gives the effect of a cord. 



TO COVER A CROWN WITH BRAID — 

Begin at the bottom of the crown, slanting the 
second row off from the first row the same as on 
the brim. Pull the braid up with the thread (which 
will be found on the edge of nearly every braid) 
and sew until the center of the crown tip is reached, 
when a hole in the top of the crown may be made 
and the end pushed through and fastened on the 
underside. Keep the braid full enough so that it 
will lie flat all the way. Sometimes it is easier to 
begin sewing the braid on at the very center of the 
top of the crown, or a few rows may be sewed to a 
small circle of crinoline before attaching to the top 
of the crown. 

If a braid is used which is composed of four or 
five smaller braids sewed together, the method is 



58 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

the same until the crown tip is reached or a place 
where it is impossible to make the braid lie flat. 
The braid must then be separated into the smaller 
strands and one cut off at a time, and each end 
lapped under the preceding strand; proceed with 
the remaining strands, cutting one off at a time until 
only one remains to finish the center with. When 
the crown tip is completed, push the remaining end 
through a hole in the center of the crown tip and 
sew to the inside of the crown. When using this 
kind of braid the operation may be reversed, be- 
ginning at the center of the top and covering a small 
circle of buckram with braid ; press it with a warm 
iron to flatten it, then sew in place on the crown 
and complete the covering. This seems the easier 
method, because the top of the crown will look much 
better if pressed and this will be found hard to do 
unless begun on a small separate piece of buckram. 

To PIECE BRAID 

Sometimes a braid must be pieced at a conspicu- 
ous point on the hat, when careful handling will be 
found necessary. If the braid is composed of sev- 
eral smaller braids sewed together, the ends should 
be ripped apart for several inches and the strands 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 59 

cut in unequal lengths ; also the strands of the other 
end which is to be joined to it should be cut of such 
length as to meet the corresponding ends and allow 
a lap of one inch. The ends cut in this way may be 
tucked under one at a time without the joining be- 
ing noticeable. If the braid is very wide it may 
seem best when covering a frame to cut and join 
the ends of the row of braid. It would then be 
better to make a straight joining in the back. 

If a fancy braid is to be pieced, the ends are 
lapped diagonally and sewed flat. If a fancy join- 
ing is part of the design, a simple one is to lap 
the ends to look as though woven. This may be 
employed on a crown or brim or both, and it then 
becomes a part of the design. Also the top of the 
crown or any part of the hat may have a woven 
covering of braid, but any such fancy method re- 
quires an additional amoimt of braid. 

The top of the crown may be covered by laying 
the braid on straight from front to back, allowing 
the ends to extend down on the side crown an inch 
or more. The braid of the side crown should cover 
these ends. The brim of a narrow hat is often cov- 
ered with short lengths of braid radiating from the 
headsize wire, the ends extending up on the crown 



60 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

one inch. A fabric is often combined with braid for 
the sake of design, or if there is an insufficient 
quantity of braid. 



Crown top of braid, side crown of fabric — 
Side crown of braid and top of fabric — 
Band of material, plain or corded, set in side 

CROWN — 

Brim and crown made from small pieces of 
silk and braid 

A very soft-looking braid hat may be made by 
sewing braid over a wire foundation which has been 
made for the purpose. The braid may be pinned 
on the brim of wire and sewed, being careful not 
to attach the braid to the frame ; slip the needle over 
the wire and finish sewing the braid while it is still 
pinned to the brim, then remove, press slightly, and 
sew a facing of braid to the under side of the brim 
if desired. Some kinds of braid may be dampened 
before pressing, but it is safer to experiment first 
with a small piece, for some braid is ruined by 
pressing. 

A soft crown of braid should be fitted over a 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 61 

wire crown and sewed in the same way. After re- 
moving it from the wire frame, it can be slightly- 
pressed by holding it over a thick cloth held in the 
hand and pressing a warm iron to the outside. A 
soft hat of braid can more easily be made by first 
making a frame of crinoline and sewing the braid 
to it. Horsehair braid crowns are beautiful when 
shaped over a wire foundation. They may be 
pressed slightly (after being removed from the 
wire crown over which they have been shaped) 
when they will be found to keep their shape. The 
brim would need a wire foundation to hold it out 
in shape and the braid should be caught down to 
the wire as it is being sewed. A small lace wire 
should be used for this foundation, four spokes 
together with the Eeadsize wire and edge wire be- 
ing sufficient. The wire should be wound with ma- 
line or have a facing of maline. Horsehair braid 
is transparent. There are many fanciful ways of 
using braid on a hat, but these can be readily copied 
if the foregoing methods have been mastered. Be 
very careful about pressing braids or adding mois- 
ture as it ruins some braids, while others must be 
moistened before they can be handled in sewing to 
a hat frame. 



62 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

Covering wire frames with maline, net or 
georgette 

Wire frames which are to be covered with sheer 
material, such as maline, net, or georgette, must 
be carefully made, as the wire frame becomes a 
part of the design, and the wire should be silk 
covered. 

If maline is used, it should be pleated or gathered 
on, unless the brim is of the halo style, for which 
directions are given elsewhere. Four or five thick- 
nesses of maline are necessary. The material is 
often gathered in small quarter-inch tucks at the 
points where the tuck may be sewed to the circle 
wire on the brim or the crown. A small tuck at 
the edge wire would make a softer looking edge 
than if put on plain. The fullness is then gathered 
in and sewed to the headsize wire. If the edge is 
left plain, a few rows of lacey-looking braid may 
be sewed on the edge. A wide tuck hanging down 
from the edge is sometimes used and it is very be- 
coming to certain types of faces. The wires of a 
frame are often first wound with narrow bias 
pieces of net or maline. The edges are turned in 
and the material wrapped on smoothly and evenly. 
Sometimes the wires are wound with a contrasting 
color. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 63 

An effective covering for any frame may be made 
from ribbon or bias strips of satin or silk, velvet 
or georgette, or any soft fabric. If a wire frame 
is used, it must first be covered with a thin plain 
material to serve as a foundation to which the ribbon 
or strips of material may be sewed, or a frame of 
neteen or crinoline may be used if a very soft hat is 
desired. 

Ribbon covering — 

If a ribbon is used, it must be gathered on one 
edge so that it may be drawn down to fit the frame 
and may be laid on the same as braid. An inch- wide 
ribbon is easily handled. 

Bias fabric — 

If bias strips of silk or satin are used, the mate- 
rial should be cut in strips two and one-half inches 
wide, on a true bias, and joined in one long strip. 
Fold lengthwise through the middle and gather the 
raw edges together a little less than one-quarter of 
an inch from the edge. This is sewed to the frame 
the same as braid, the folded edge overlapping the 
raw edge and the thread drawn up to adjust it as 



64 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

it is pinned and sewed in place. This is an excellent 
way to use up old material. 



Hat Linings 

A hat lining should receive the same careful 
consideration and workmanship as the outside of 
the hat. From the milliner's point of view it is an 
advertisement, the place where we find the design- 
er's name. A well-fitted lining, whether of somber 
or gay colored silk, enhances the value of a hat. 
Sometimes we find a tiny sachet rosebud sewed to 
the lining, or a little lace-trimmed pocket for the 
veil. 

There are three popular kinds of linings — 

Plain lining 

French lining 

Tailored lining 

Plain lining — 

This should be made of a bias strip of material 
cut the length of the headsize wire, plus one inch 
for seam. The width should be the same as the 
crown height plus two and one-half inches. 

Fold one end over one-half inch and pin to the 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 65 

back of the hat ; fold the edge of the material down 
one-quarter of an inch around the inside of the 
crown as close as possible to the edge without show- 
ing when the hat is on the head. Pin in place all 
the way round and slipstitch the two ends together ; 
then begin at the seam and slipstitch the lining in 
place. The method is to bring the needle from the 
underside of the lining through the edge of the fold, 
catch a few threads of material on the hat opposite 
this thread, and put the needle back through the fold 
at the same point ; bring the needle through the fold 
one-half inch from the first stitch and proceed in 
this manner until the seam is reached. Turn the 
other raw edge down one-half inch to the wrong side 
and make a running stitch one-quarter inch from 
the folded edge in which a narrow ribbon should be 
run, and drawn down as much as necessary to make 
the lining fit the crown. A crown tip is used with 
this lining, which is made of a piece of silk four 
inches square, sewed or glued to the inside of the 
crown top. On this piece the designer's name is 
usually found. 

French lining — 

This lining is made from an oval piece of silk 



66 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

which corresponds to the crown measurements. 
Measure the crown from front to back and from 
side to side, adding one inch to these measurements. 
Fit a small wire to the inside of the hat at the head- 
size and tie. Lap the edge of the silk over the wire 
one-quarter of an inch. Gather the silk close to the 
wire using a small running) stitch. After com- 
pleted, pin in place and slipstitch to the crown. 
This lining will reduce the headsize of any hat 
somewhat, so it should never be used if there is any 
danger of making the hat too small for the head. 

Tailored lining — 

This lining is rather the most popular lining used. 
Large firms send their material away to be made up 
for their trade and the linings may be bought ready- 
made, but almost every one has pieces of silk which 
may be easily made into one of these linings. 

Cut an oval of crinoline two-thirds as large as 
the top of crown, baste a piece of silk lining over 
this. Pin this on top of the crown, as this can 
best be fitted on the outside and should be done be- 
fore the hat is made. Now cut a piece of bias mate- 
rial long enough to reach around the bottom of the 
crown wide enough to meet this crown tip at all 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 67 

points. After pinning it to the crown tip, turn up 
one-quarter of an inch at the bottom and pin to the 
bottom of the crown. Stretch snugly because the in- 
side of the crown is smaller ; pin the fullness to the 
crown top all around, gather between pins, and 
baste in place. Stitch on the machine. This seam 
may be corded or a small cord sewed on to cover 
the seam. 

Linings may be made of taffeta, china silk, satin, 
sateen or of almost any material which is not too 
heavy. When a wire frame is covered with thin 
material and the frame shows through, the hat 
should have a thin lining. If the hat is covered with 
maline, use a maline lining; if with georgette, a 
georgette lining should be used. 



CHAPTER VII 

TRIMMINGS 

Milliner's fold — 

Cut from a piece of velvet, satin, or any fabric 
which is to be used, a bias strip one and one-half 
inches wide and of the desired length. This must 
be on a true bias, which is found by placing the 
warp and woof threads parallel. Any other bias is 
called a garment bias. Hold the wrong side toward 
you and turn the bottom edge up on the wrong side 
toward you and up to the center and baste close to 
the edge. The basting thread must be loose enough 
to permit the fold to be stretched. Leave the bast- 
ing in. Next fold the other raw edge down until 
the two edges meet, but do not baste. Fold again, 
keeping this last fold one-quarter of an inch or a 
little less from the other folded edge. Hold in place 
and slipstitch down. Slip the needle through the 
edge of the fold and take a long stitch, then, going 
down through to the other side, take a short stitch. 
Come back through a little under the fold to hide 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 69 

the stitch. Slip the needle along the edge of the 
fold as before, and continue in this manner. The 
thread should be kept loose all the way to permit 
the fold to be stretched slightly when used. The 
fold when finished should not twist or look as if it 
had a stitch in it. 

Another separate single fold may be added to 
this ; it is then called a French fold. The milliner's 
fold has many uses, such as finishing the edge of 
hats, and the bottom of crowns, to cover the joining 
of the hat to the brim. It is used sometimes around 
the top of a square crown and is mucti used in 
mourning millinery, when it is made of crepe. 

Bows 

For the inexperienced in bow-making there is no 
better plan than to copy many different styles of 
bows, using either tissue paper or cheap cambric, 
as ribbons are ruined by being made over too many 
times. Bow-making is sometimes quite difficult for 
an amateur, while for some students of millinery it 
is very easy, but any one with patience may become 
quite expert in time. 

Cut the tissue paper or cambric the exact width 
of the ribbon which is to be used. In this way the 



70 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

exact amount of ribbon may be determined, as well 
as the length of each loop. If a stiff, smart-looking 
bow is to be made, fold the ribbon in loops before 
pleating. If a soft-looking or puffy, "fat"-looking 
bow is desired, pleat the ribbon singly before mak- 
ing the loops. The soft bow is often used for chil- 
dren's hats. After the desired number of loops is 
made, wind a strong thread around the center and 
over this wrap the remaining end of ribbon around 
the center several times until the center is filled up 
sufficiently to look well. 



BOWS OF MALINE — 

Maline is one of the most beautiful materials used 
in millinery and it lends itself to many uses. Hat 
frames are covered with maline; it is used to cover 
wings to keep feathers in place; to cover faded or 
worn-out flowers ; for shirred brims and crowns ; for 
pleatings ; for folds on edges of brims to give a soft 
look ; and for bows. 

A bow of maline requires wiring with a very small 
tie wire or lace wire. The wire may be caught in a 
fold at the edge of the loops, or the loops may be 
made double with the wire caught inside. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 71 

Wired ribbon bows — 

Ribbon is sometimes wired if a stiff effect is de- 
sired. Silk, satin, velvet, or any kind of ribbon can 
be used. The flat ribbon wire is sometimes pasted 
between two ribbons with milliner's glue. Often two 
colors are rather effectively used in this way. The 
wire may also be stitched to one edge of the ribbon. 
This is done by turning the ribbon over the wire at 
the edge and stitching on the sewing machine. The 
ends of the wire should extend two inches beyond the 
ends of the loop of the bow. After the bow is ar- 
ranged, these ends should be bent out and back, 
making loops which are sewed down to the hat. This 
holds the bow very firmly, especially if a small 
piece of buckram is placed inside the hat at the 
point at which the bow is to be sewed. This re- 
enforces the frame and makes it still more firm. If 
a bow is to be placed on top of a crown, a hole may 
be made and the ribbon which completes the middle 
of the bow may be brought up from the inside of 
the crown through this opening, over the bow, and 
down through this opening and fastened inside of 
the crown. 

A narrow ribbon of velvet is very pretty twisted 
over a wire and two perky loops and ends made. 



72 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

These are very pretty perched on the edge of a 
brim or among flowers on the hat. 

True lovers' knot — 

This is not, strictly speaking, a bow, but comes 
under this head. The ribbon used is made into the 
knot and sewed flat as it is made. It may be sewed 
on the brim or side crown and is very effective made 
of gold ribbon. 

Tailored bow — 

This bow is usually made from a piece of ribbon 
which has both sides alike, although it may be made 
from any ribbon. A Knox tailored bow is made 
from gros-grained ribbon. Cut a small piece of 
buckram for a foundation to sew the ribbon on. 
This should be sufficiently small so that the ribbon 
will conceal it. Make two loops of equal length, 
letting the ribbon lie perfectly flat. Measurements 
should be very exact. Sew these loops firmly to 
the buckram ; fold the ribbon back and forth to make 
these loops without cutting. Next fold two more 
loops, one on each side, one-quarter of an inch 
shorter and exactly on top. Sew firmly and cut the 





RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON 
LOW PYRAMID OF BUCKRAM 



SECTION OF MALINE 
POMPON SHOWING 
METHOD OF FASTEN- 
ING ON THE WIRE 




RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON BUCKRAM FOUNDATION 





SECOND METHOD OF MAKING AN ORCHID CENTER (see page 91) 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 73 

ribbon off at the center. Fasten two short ends to 
the back of the bow, allowing them to extend one- 
quarter of an inch and cut diagonally. Take a 
short length of ribbon and pleat it once through the 
center. Wrap this once around the bow and fasten 
at the back. 

This bow is much used on sailors or any tailored 
hat. There are many kinds of fancy bows brought 
out from season to season, but if the making of a 
few styles of standard bows is mastered, others may 
be easily copied. 

Pleatings 

A pleating is difficult and requires patience. Un- 
less accurately made, it should never be used on a 
hat, for upon its accuracy depends its attractive- 
ness. The simplest pleating is a side pleating. This 
may be made from paper or stiff muslin for prac- 
tice work. There should not be a thread's difference 
in the width of each pleat. Any simple pleating re- 
quires three times the length of the space it is to 
cover. If a half -inch pleating is to be made, the 
folds will come every one and one-half inches. As 
each fold is laid, baste it down with silk thread. 
Press slightly on the wrong side before using. 



74 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

BOX PLEATING 

This is made by turning the first pleat to the left 
and the next to the right. The same amount of ma- 
terial is required as for side pleating. If the pleats 
are to be one-half inch deep, the box pleat will be 
one inch across. Baste with silk thread at the top 
and bottom, and press on the wrong side. A simple 
box pleating may be basted through the center and 
the edges caught together. 

Double or triple box-pleating — 

This is made by adding one or more pleats, one 
on top of the other. Begin by making two or more 
pleats turning to the left, then the same number 
turning to the right. Be very accurate, being care- 
ful to keep the box pleat the exact width desired. 
Baste at the top and bottom. This pleating is nearly 
always used by basting through the center, after 
having slightly pressed. The top and bottom bast- 
ings are then removed. The pleating may be caught 
together at top and bottom of box pleat, and it is 
then known as rose pleating. 

Radiating — 

* This is the most difficult pleating to fashion, but 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 75 

very handsome ornaments are made in this way. A 
foundation of buckram is usually required to sew 
the pleats on as they are laid. The two illustrations 
given will suffice. After these two examples are 
correctly copied, other models and original designs 
can be easily made. 

Foundations of buckram — ■ 

The foundation for the second is in the shape of 
a low pyramid made from buckram. Cut a small 
circle of buckram, slash in three equally distant 
places from the outer edge to within one-eighth of 
an inch of the center. Lap a small amount and sew. 
Three rows or more of pleating may be used on this 
ornament. An ordinary ornament will require about 
five yards of inch-wide ribbon. The first row would 
be placed near the outside edge of the buckram and 
each pleat sewed as it is laid. The pleating should 
radiate from the center. To do this, the inside of 
the pleating will lap more than the outside. The 
next row will overlap this first row and the same 
method will be used. The pleating may be tested 
by holding a ruler on a line between the top and the 
lower edge of the pleating. The pleats should all be 
on a straight line between these points. The last or 



76 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

finishing row is the most difficult of all. The pleats 
at the apex should meet, and pleats at the lower 
overlapping edge be on a fine with the rest of the 
pleating. A tiny bow or button is sometimes used 
to finish the top, but it is much handsomer if finished 
without either bow or button. 

Pompons 

Maline pompons make a very pretty ornament for 
any hat. They may be made perfectly round or 
elongated like the illustration. Several thicknesses 
of the material may be cut at one time. The shape 
of the pieces for the elongated pompon would be 
cut like pattern "a." Each piece is folded length- 
wise of the material, and this fold is fastened to a 
wire which has been previously wound with maline. 
The edges of these pieces are left raw, and enough 
are used to make the pompon appear quite compact. 

Ribbon Rosettes 

There are many different kinds of rosettes made 
from ribbon. Sometimes several loops of ribbon 
are made very close together and wound with 
thread as they are gathered. A very pretty rosette 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 77 

is made of narrow ribbon one-quarter of an inch 
wide. Many loops three inches long or more of this 
width ribbon may be fastened to a small piece of 
buckram. A knot placed at the end of each loop 
adds to its attractiveness. 

Rosettes from old plumes — 

An old plume may be used to make trimming for 
a hat by cutting it from the quill with a very sharp 
knife or razor blade, retaining a small portion of 
the quill which will be sufficient to hold the feathers 
together. This should be sewed onto a fine wire, 
and it may then be wound into a rosette. A small 
flower placed in the center is a pleasing addition. 



CHAPTER VIII 

HAND-MADE FLOWERS 

Flowers 
Material required: 

Tie wire, green 

Gum tissue, brown and green 

Cotton batting 

Milliner's glue 

Yellow stamens 

Dark green tissue paper 
Flowers may be made from almost any fabric — 
satin, velvet, georgette, maline, ribbon, soft leather, 
oilcloth, yarn, and chenille. A scrapbag for odds 
and ends should always be kept for small pieces of 
materials. Any piece two inches square may be used 
for flowers or fruits. Such a bag of pieces will prove 
a veritable gold mine to use in making flowers and 
fruit trimmings. Each year brings out novelties in 
trimmings, but hand-made flowers are always worn 
more or less on hats, gowns, suits, and muffs. They 
are especially beautiful on evening gowns. A gener- 
ous number of the best examples are given here with 
illustrations. 




A. AMERICAN BEAUTY ROSE WITH DETAIL. B. RIBBON ROSE. C. CHERRIES 
WITH DETAIL. D. ORCHIDS WITH LILIES OF THE VALLEY. E. RAISINS. 
F. WIRED ROSE WITH DETAIL. G. POINSETTIA. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 79 

To prepare the petals of any flower is not diffi- 
cult, but to arrange them is another matter. Study 
the face of any blossom which you are making and 
try to make it look as natural as possible. Pinning 
the petals in place before sewing them is of great 
value, otherwise they are apt to slip back on the 
stem as they are being sewed. 

American Beauty rose — 

This rose may be made of silk or satin; it may 
have as many petals as desired. Each petal is cut 
from a piece of folded material like the diagram ( 1 ) . 
It is highly important that the folded edge be on a 
true bias. Begin the rose by cutting three petals 
like the illustration, with the bias edge one and one- 
half inches long. Bun a gathering thread one-eighth 
of an inch from the curved edge, leaving a thread 
one inch long so that the petal may be adjusted as 
it is pinned in place. Make a loop one inch long on 
the end of a piece of wire six inches long. Cover this 
loop with a small circle of the material like the rose. 
It is sometimes found to be advantageous to fill this 
circle with cotton to make a soft center for the rose. 

For an ordinary-sized rose there should be eight- 
een petals. The first three are already described 



80 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

as having a one and one-half -inch bias. The next 
larger in size should have a two-inch bias and be cor- 
respondingly wider; the next five should have a two 
and one-half -inch bias, and the next five a three- 
inch bias. The three small petals should be arranged 
around the covered loop of wire and pinned in place 
before sewing. Sew securely. Each row, as it is ar- 
ranged according to size, should be pinned in place 
and scrutinized carefully to see that it is placed 
effectively. Each row should be placed a little 
higher than the preceding one. See that the face of 
the flower looks as nearly like a real rose as possi- 
ble, allowing the back to look as it will. 

With a little experience one soon becomes effi- 
cient and learns how to adjust the different mate- 
rials. Some materials being more pliable than 
others, the shape of the petals may be changed 
slightly to meet the need. The back of the rose may 
be finished by adding a sufficient number of green 
leaves taken from some discarded flower or bought 
for the purpose. A small green cup is also added to 
finish the base ; these may be bought at ribbon coun- 
ters. The bud used with this rose may be made by 
using the three smallest petals. Some green foliage 
must also be used with this rose and the stem bound 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 81 

with a narrow gray-green ribbon, or with gum tissue 
which should be warmed before using. The inside 
petals may be of a darker shade than the outside 
petals. 

Ribbon rose — 

To make a medium-sized ribbon rose requires 
two yards of satin ribbon two inches wide. There 
are several different methods of making the center 
for this rose. A simple center for this rose may be 
made from a piece of the ribbon, four inches long. 
Fold this in half. Sew the selvages together along 
one side. Turn and fill with cotton around which 
has been wound the end of a six-inch piece of frame 
wire. A little rose-scented sachet powder may be 
sprinkled on this cotton to add perfume to the blos- 
som. Gather the satin down close to the wire after 
rounding the corners at the lower edges. Two yards 
should make this center and eighteen petals. More 
may be added or fewer may be used. For the first 
row cut three lengths three inches long ; the second 
row, five lengths three and one-half inches long; 
third row, five lengths four inches long; fourth row, 
five lengths four and one-half inches long. Each 
petal is finished the same before it is sewed in place. 



82 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

Fold the two ends together, turn each corner of the 
folded end down diagonally and pin in place. Now 
raise the end on the back of the petal and catch the 
corners down with a few small stitches. Replace the 
end and gather the raw edges together, but do not 
draw up close. Prepare all of the petals in the same 
way before beginning to sew them to the center. 
Sometimes a tiny bit of cotton is placed inside each 
petal to make the rose look larger. When all the 
petals are finished, begin the rose by adding the 
three smallest petals first. Pin in place around the 
center, wrapping them closely around it and letting 
them extend about one-eighth of an inch above the 
point. Add the next row, pinning each petal in 
place before sewing. Place each succeeding row 
one-eighth of an inch above the preceding one. 
Watch the face of the blossom carefully and see 
that it looks as natural as possible. The back 
of the blossom will be covered when finished, either 
with a few old rose leaves and a rose cup, or points 
of green ribbon sewed to resemble leaves. A rubber 
stem may be bought to slip over the wire on which 
the rose is sewed, or the wire may be wound with 
green floss, baby ribbon, green tissue paper, or 
gum tissue. If the rose is to be full blown, it would 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 83 

be much better to make the center of yellow sta- 
mens. 

Wild rose of silk — 

The petals for the wild rose may be cut from the 
same pattern as for the first rose given. This same 
pattern is used for many different flowers — the wild 
rose, apple blossom, sweet pea, and for foliage. 

For the wild rose use the size having the two- 
inch bias. Gather one-eighth of an inch from the 
curved edge, draw down tight and fasten the thread 
off. This rose requires five petals, and will look 
more natural if two of the petals are of a darker 
shade than the other three. For the center wrap a 
piece of tie wire around several yellow rose sta- 
mens which may be bought at a millinery store, 
leaving the ends of wire five or six inches long. Ar- 
range the petals flat around this center and sew in 
place. The petals should He out flat, or nearly so. 
A bud for this rose is made by folding a petal to- 
gether after having gathered it. The bud may be 
effectively finished by using two leaves of foliage, 
placing one on either side, partially covering the 
bud and then finishing with the wire or a small green 
rose cup. To finish with wire, make a loop in the 



84, MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

center of a ten-inch piece of tie wire. To this loop 
sew the bud. Twist the wire several times for an 
inch below the bud, then turn one end of the wire 
back and twist it around the stem until the bud is 
reached. Wind it several times over the base of the 
bud, draw it tight and see that the wire is close to- 
gether. This will make a finish for the bud. 

Foliage — 

The rose foliage may be made if desired. Cut the 
leaves from green satin or velvet, or color them 
green with water-color if a light-colored material 
must be used. After cutting the pieces in the shape 
of rose leaves (it will require two pieces for each 
leaf), lay one wrong side up, cover with milliner's 
glue. Lay on the center of this a piece of tie wire 
long enough for the stem. Place another leaf on 
this and press together. When all the leaves are 
made after this method, arrange on a long stem or 
wire, and if wound with brown gum tissue it will 
look very natural. 

Smaix wound rose of fabric — 

Cut from a true bias a strip of material one inch 
wide and four inches long. Fold lengthwise through 
the middle. Turn the raw edges in on one end, 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 85 

and gather one-eighth inch from the edge along the 
raw edges. Draw the thread up to one inch and 
roll, beginning with the folded end, and sew. A 
piece of tie wire may be glued inside the fold before 
gathering, if desired. These little roses may be 
sewed on a stem or sewed to a shaped piece of buck- 
ram which has been covered with silk. It may be 
in the shape of a buckle or a circle and covered with 
these little roses in several colors, pink, blue, and 
mauve. Sewed flat against a crown or on a brim, 
they would trim a hat effectively. 

Wired rose — 

This rose, when carefully made, is most beauti- 
ful and sells for an exorbitant price. To make the 
rose as illustrated requires one-quarter of a yard 
of satin cut on the bias and one-eighth of a yard of 
velvet cut on the bias. If the velvet is one or more 
shades darker, the result will be more pleasing. 

The rose is fashioned from petals cut like the 
illustration. The first three petals are cut from 
dimensions given in the illustration, two inches long 
and one and three-quarters inches wide. The next 
five petals should be one-quarter of an inch larger, 
and each succeeding row of five petals should be 



86 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

one-quarter of an inch larger than the preceding 
one. The last row of petals is to be made from the 
velvet. Cut a piece of the tie wire long enough to 
reach around the outside edge of each petal, plus one 
and one-half inches. Lay the petals down wrong 
side up, bend the wire to the shape of the petal, lay 
the wire close to the edge and turn the raw edge 
over the wire one-eighth of an inch and glue in 
place with milliner's glue. Place a light weight on 
the petals until thoroughly dry. 

Begin assembling the flower by first making a 
center from some of the scraps left from the velvet, 
or yellow rose stamens may be used; fold several 
small pieces into bud-like shapes of about one inch 
in length, sew strongly and fasten on a loop of the 
wire six inches long. Keep the point where all the 
petals are joined in as small a circumference as 
possible. Begin with the three small petals, pleat 
them at the bottom into as small a space as possible, 
and sew to the center with the wrong side to the 
center. After they have been arranged, the edges 
may be crinkled down somewhat. Add the remain- 
ing petals according to their size. The last row of 
velvet petals is rather pretty if one or more is placed 
with the right side toward the center. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 87 

Flat pasted blossom — 

A conventional flower which makes a beautiful 
trimming may be made from the pattern for the 
wired rose first given. Cut five petals (of any size 
required) from velvet, and five the same size from 
silk or satin. Lay the velvet petals wrong side up 
and cover with milliner's glue. Lay on this a piece 
of tie wire one-quarter of an inch from the edge, 
allowing an extension of ends of the wire at the 
bottom of the petal. Lay the silk petal on top and 
press firmly. When dry arrange these five petals 
around a cluster of yellow stamens, which have been 
fastened to a loop of tie wire. This blossom should 
lie out flat when finished. Of course the shape of 
the petals may be changed in any way desired. 

Poinsettias — 

The petals of this blossom are also pasted to a 
lining, the poinsettia making a beautiful ornament. 
While a bright red is extremely lovely, a black poin- 
settia is equally effective. The petals should be 
made of velvet and lined with the same color in satin. 
These petals being narrow, only need a wire through 
jthe center. After the petals have been prepared, 



88 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

they should be assembled around a bunch of yellow 
stamens or knotted baby ribbon. 

The foliage is made from green velvet lined with 
green silk. The accompanying illustration shows 
the proportion of both the petals of the blossom 
and the foliage. The stems may be wound with 
green or brown gum tissue. 



Poppies — 

Poppies may be made from ribbon seventeen 
inches long and two and one-quarter inches wide. 
Cut two pieces five and one-half inches long. This 
leaves one piece six inches long. This will make 
five petals. Cut the ends round on the five and one- 
half inch pieces, and cut one end of the six-inch 
piece round. Beginning at the center, close to edge, 
gather with a small running stitch. Turn in the raw 
edges and draw the thread sufficiently to make the 
rounded ends curl over one inch, and fasten off the 
thread. These two long pieces make four petals. 
Pleat them very close at the center, sew together, 
finish the single petal the same and add it to the 
four petals. Knotted black baby ribbon or yellow 
stamens or both will make a beautiful center. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 89 

Morning glories — 

Cut a circle of paper four inches in diameter. 
One quarter section of this will be the pattern for 
a morning glory. The circle may be larger if de- 
sired, but the size should depend somewhat upon 
the material used. These dimensions are for a small 
blossom made of taffeta silk or organdie. If made 
of velvet or heavy silk, the pattern should be much 
larger. 

Lap the straight edges one-eighth of an inch in 
and paste in place. This makes a cone. Cut a piece 
of tie wire six inches in length, lap one end over 
several knots of yellow baby ribbon and twist se- 
curely. Push the other end of wire through the cone 
from the inside and draw the knots down into the 
point. Make a short bend in the wire at the lower 
point of the blossom on the outside to prevent its 
slipping down on the wire. The upper edge of the 
cone may be rolled over a piece of tie wire and 
pasted if necessary ; usually it stays in place without 
either sewing or pasting. The edge should be 
stretched slightly. Organdie or taffeta silk will stay 
rolled into place without the tie wire. Water color 
is used most effectively on these flowers to make the 
shading as true to nature as possible. If made of 



90 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

velvet they may be sewed down flat on a hat at the 
side joining, when a large stamen of twisted ribbon 
or chenille may be made to cover the joining in 
the cone. 

Okchid — 

This blossom is especially adapted to the gown of 
the matron, or wherever a touch of lavender is de- 
sired. It is effectively combined with violets, or 
lilies-of-the-valley and maidenhair fern. The petals 
are made of satin ribbon one and one-quarter inches 
wide and of the peculiar pinkish lavender orchid 
shade. There are five petals in all — each calls for 
seven inches of ribbon. If possible, three of the 
petals should be one or two shades darker than the 
other two. 

Fold a seven-inch piece of ribbon (one and one- 
quarter inches wide) in half with the right side 
out. Cut into shape like the illustration. Stitch a 
seam along the curved edge one-eighth of an inch 
from the edge. Twist a very small loop in one 
end of a piece of seven-inch tie wire and fasten up 
at folded end of the ribbon. Overhand this wire 
along the raw edges, turn to the wrong side and 
sew the wire in with a one-eighth-inch seam on the 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 91 

wrong side. This makes a French seam. Now 
spread the petal open flat, and push it up on the 
wire until the petal measures six inches in length. 
Gather the raw ends and wind them tight to the 
wire. Finish the other four petals the same way. 

No. 1 PATTERN FOR THE CENTER — 

This calls for a piece of velvet ribbon one and 
one-half inches wide and four inches in length. If 
possible this ribbon should be darker than the dark- 
est petal, but of course should harmonize. Roll the 
ends and hem them down. Gather along one edge 
and draw down close around the looped end of a 
piece of tie wire in which a bunch of yellow stamens 
have been fastened. The blossom should be ar- 
ranged with the three darker petals pointing up at 
the back of the center and the other two at the front 
drooping. 

No. 2 PATTERN FOR THE CENTER — 

This center is made from a piece of velvet ribbon 
three and one-half inches long and one and one- 
quarter inches wide. Fold lengthwise, with the 
satin side out. At one end sew straight across, mak- 
ing a seam one-eighth of an inch deep and turn. 



92 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

Cut the other end like the diagram and sew this 
with the velvet side out, leaving a tiny space at the 
bottom to insert the wire. This now looks some- 
thing like a "Jack in the Pulpit." Twist a few yel- 
low stamens in the end of a piece of seven-inch tie 
wire and push the other end down through the little 
opening left at the lower point and draw the sta- 
mens down in as low as desired. Make a small, short 
loop in the tie wire close to the blossom to prevent 
its slipping back down on the wire. 

Each year there are new developments in flower 
making, but the principles are the same. If a few 
are mastered, there is usually very little difficulty 
experienced in copying others which may appear 
from year to year. Lovely flowers may be made 
from a few inches of hat braids which are left over 
or from wool and raffia, maline or colored nets. 

Blossoms of maline or net — 

These may be made by using the same pattern as 
for the American Beauty rose, selecting the size 
required. ( See illustration. ) Lay a strip of tie wire 
inside along the bias fold. Gather along the curved 
edge and draw down tight. This brings the two 
ends of the tie wire together, and they should be 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 93 

twisted lightly. Arrange four or five leaves around 
a few yellow stamens. If green tie wire is used, it 
is not necessary to wind the stems ; otherwise brown 
gum tissue may be wound around the stem. From 
this pattern many different blossoms may be made, 
varying it slightly, such as rosebuds, sweet peas, 
and apple blossoms. 

Sweet peas — 

Cut four petals after the same pattern, making 
one about one and one-half inches and two one inch, 
then a small one for the center, or a few knots of 
baby ribbon may be used for the center. Arrange 
the petals in a natural-looking blossom. 

Violets — 

No flower is more popular than the violet, and a 
cluster of handsome violets make a most acceptable 
gift at any time. 

Violet-colored satin ribbon about one-quarter of 
an inch in width is used. Begin by tying a knot 
one inch from the end, tie another one inch from 
this knot; continue until there are five or six knots 
one inch apart. In tying, try to keep the satin side 
of the ribbon out and make as round a knot as pos- 
sible by pushing the ribbon edges together on the 



94, MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

knot. Do not tie too tightly. A little practice is 
needed, but the blossom is easily made. Hold the 
first knot between the thumb and finger, bring the 
third knot up and place with it, then the fifth, 
and so on, until the knots are all placed — usually 
three on one side, and two or three on the other. 
Cut green tie wire six or seven inches long for 
stems. Wind an inch of the end over the ribbon be- 
tween these folded knots and twist. Cut the ribbon 
off pointed, leaving one-half inch end. 

Two shades of ribbon may be used if desired. 
Sometimes a few yellow stamens are fastened in 
with the wire or a few French knots in yellow added 
at the center after the blossom is made, but neither 
is needed and add but little to the beauty of this 
little blossom. Shape the petals up around the cen- 
ter. 

The foliage for this flower can be bought, or made 
according to directions given elsewhere. A spray 
of almost any foliage will do. A small rosebud, a 
morning-glory or an orchid added to a bouquet of 
violets will make it doubly charming. 

Daisies — 

Daisies may be made from one-quarter inch rib? 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 95 

bon, using as many petals as desired. Cut the rib- 
bon into two and one-half -inch lengths. Tie a knot 
in the center. Sew the ends to a small, round piece 
of buckram. If two rows of petals are used, the 
second row may be made one-quarter of an inch 
shorter. The center may be covered with ready- 
made daisy centers or a few French knots. The 
stem of wire is tacked to the buckram on the back 
and may be wound with green floss. 

Geraniums — 

These flowers are made of geranium-colored satin 
ribbon. Use the same method as in making violets, 
except that yellow stamens should always be added. 

Fruit 
Apples — 

The material required for making apples is cut 
into a circle of any size desired and from any mate- 
rial. The edge should be turned in one-sixteenth 
of an inch and gathered all around. Place this over 
a piece of cotton batting, over which a piece of wire 
has been twisted, leaving ends long enough for a 
stem. Add a sufficient amount of cotton to fill the 
material out well. Draw the thread tight and sew. 



96 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

A stitch may be caught through the center and 
pulled down, or a little tuft of brown embroidery 
thread sewed to the center to give a more realistic 
look. The apple may be tinted with water-color if 
desired. In that case the entire apple should be 
moistened first and then the color applied and al- 
lowed to dry. 

Cherries — 

These are made from a smaller circle of material 
than the apple — satin or velvet would make a 
charming cluster. The method used is the same as 
for the apple, except that there would be no stitch 
in the center. They should also be filled until they 
are hard. Use tie wire for the stems. 

Plums — 

These may be made from a piece of plum-colored 
material on a true bias, two and one-quarter inches 
long and one and one-quarter inches wide. Sew 
the ends together on the wrong side. Turn, gather 
one end one-eighth of an inch from the edge. Pull 
the thread up tight and sew. This makes the "blow" 
end. Turn the lower edge in one-eighth of an inch 
and gather. Fill with cotton to which a piece of tie 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 97 

wire has been attached and pull close to wire and 
sew. Add as much cotton as necessary to procure 
the right shape before finishing. 

Raisins — 

These may be made from gathering a folded cir- 
cle of plum-colored material one-eighth of an inch 
from the edge, but used without filling with cotton. 
Sew to the end of looped tie wire and wind the wire 
with brown gum tissue. Arrange in a cluster. 
Always warm the tissue before using so that it will 
adhere. 

Grapes — 

These are made the same as cherries, except a 
cluster would have several sizes. They are beautiful 
made from black velvet. A cluster of grapes to 
sew flat to hat may be made by covering different 
sizes of button molds and arranging them on a hat 
to look like a cluster. 

Mourning Millinery 

Hats worn when one is in mourning are nearly 
always small and made of black crepe with a few 
folds of white crepe near the face. The covering of 



98 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

crepe is always lined, preferably with sheet wadding 
to give the soft appearance desired. The trimming 
is of milliner's folds or flat flowers made of the 
crepe. 1 The mourning veils used may have a simple 
wide hem sewed down by hand or an applied hem. 
The applied hem is much the handsomer finish. 

Applied hem on a veil — 

For a hem three inches wide, cut a strip six inches 
in width and long enough to reach around the edge 
of the veil plus three inches for each corner. It 
takes that much extra length to mitre a corner of a 
rectangular veil. 

Fold this strip lengthwise in the middle and baste 
with fine running stitches one inch from the fold 
to hold the fold flat. Measure this strip at the edge 
of the veil to locate the place where the fold must 
be mitred at the corners. Cut a V-shaped piece from 
this fold to within one-quarter of an inch of the fold. 
Cut through both thicknesses. Sew these raw edges 
together in a seam one-quarter of an inch deep and 
the result will be a mitred corner. Each corner 
should be carefully planned and mitred before sew- 
ing to the veil. Next turn both raw edges down 

1 See chapter on "Flowers." 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 99 

toward the inside one-quarter of an inch and baste 
separately. Slip the edge of the veil between, pin 
carefully in place, baste and slip stitch the edges to 
the veil. Both edges may be stitched at the same 
time. If this work is carefully done, the result 
more than repays the time spent upon it. 

The veil is a very important part of the hat and 
may be adjusted in any becoming way. It may 
form part of the covering of the hat, and is then 
arranged in becoming folds toward the back and 
allowed to fall to any desired length. It makes a 
becoming background for the face. Mourning mil- 
linery is not used as much as formerly, but those 
who desire to adhere to the custom will find the 
style little changed. 



CHAPTER IX 
REMODELING AND RENOVATING 

Straw shapes — 

Brim — Brush well to remove all the dust. If the 
brim is too wide, a few rows of braid may be re- 
moved from the edge, and the edge refinished with 
one or more rows of ornamental braid of the same 
color. If it seems necessary to use an edge wire, this 
last row of braid may be made to cover it, or a bias 
fold of satin, silk, velvet, or ribbon may be sewed 
over the wire. 

Crown — When the crown of a straw hat is found 
to be too low for the present style, the crown may be 
ripped from the brim, a narrow piece of buckram 
sewed to the bottom of the crown and then sewed 
back to the brim. Of course trimming must be 
planned to cover up this buckram. If the crown is 
too high, a few rows of braid may be removed at the 
bottom of the crown, enough to give the desired 
height. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 101 

To PUT A STRAW HAT INTO SHAPE — 

If the general outlines of a straw shape are found 
to be good, or if it only needs slight reshaping, it can 
be done at home with satisfactory results. It is 
really home-blocking by the use of heavy cardboard. 
A rounded crown can be made flat on top, and a 
slightly rolling brim can be made into a straight 
brim by using this method. It is a joy to take an 
old, discarded, battered straw hat and make it into a 
fresh-looking and up-to-date hat, a piece of work 
which any one may well be proud of. 

Cut from a piece of heavy cardboard the exact 
shape and size of which the crown top is to be made, 
Cut another the exact height of the crown and long 
enough to fit around the head, allowing the ends to 
just meet. Sew these pieces of cardboard together 
which will make a crown the exact shape you 
wish. Dampen the straw crown sufficiently to 
make it very pliable and pull it into shape over this 
cardboard crown. Turn the crown upside down on 
a flat surface and place a weight in the crown. A 
flatiron or a small stone jar will make a good 
weight. Bind the outside firmly and smoothly with 
a cloth, pin in place, and leave to dry. After it is 
thoroughly dry, remove the cloth, and before re- 



102 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

moving it from the block, cover with a coating or 
two of some good coloring which may be bought 
for the purpose. This can be procured in several 
colors, but must be put on with a stiff brush and 
rubbed in well in order to produce an even shade. 
If the brim is rolling and is to be made flat, 
dampen it thoroughly, press it down flat on a smooth 
surface, and cover with weights; leave until dry, 
when a few coats of coloring may be applied. If the 
brim is separate from the crown, the hat may be 
completely changed by slipping the brim down over 
the crown, leaving it an inch or so from the bottom 
on one side or in the back, making a bandeau which 
lends itself to trimming of flowers, ribbons, or ma- 
lines. In this case the bottom of the crown would re- 
quire a wire sewed on at the edge to keep it in shape. 
If a high luster is desired, a coating of shellac may 
be applied the last thing before trimming. 

Light straw hats — 

Light straw hats may be cleaned by the use of 
soap and water or gasoline. If the hat is in need of 
bleaching, sulphur and water may be used, or a com- 
mercial bleaching fluid may be bought all ready to 
use according to printed directions. Two or three 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 103 

coatings of coloring will change the color. Pleasing 
results are sometimes obtained by using two differ- 
ent colors, one over the other. This, of course, re- 
quires experience and should be tried out before 
using on a hat. 

When straw is to be re-sewed — 

Rip carefully from the foundation; brush and 
press carefully. Some straw will not stand dampen- 
ing, so try out a small piece first. Place it on a 
heavily-padded board and press on the wrong side. 

Panama hats — 

It is much more satisfactory to send a Panama to 
a good professional cleaner. A Panama hat may be 
made less severe-looking by the addition of an un- 
derfaeing on the brim of some sheer material, such 
as georgette or crepe de chine, finished off at the 
edge over a wire. The facing may be put on top 
of the brim if desired. The entire crown is some- 
times changed by covering it with a figured chiffon 
drawn down tightly and finished at the bottom with 
a band and bow of ribbon. 

Another change might be made by covering the 



104 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

entire crown with flower petals sewed down flat and 

intermingled with green leaves. They should then 

be covered with a layer or more of maline. This is a 

good way to use up old flowers. The flowers will 

stand a lot of retouching with color when they are 

veiled. 

Old buckram frames — 

When a covered buckram shape has become 
broken and out of shape, remove all the covering. 
Dampen the frame and press with a hot iron. A roll 
of cloth or paper must be held in the hand while 
pressing the crown. A break in buckram is difficult 
to remove; however, if new material is not avail- 
able, much may be done with the old. Do not re- 
move the headsize wire unless a pencil mark is made 
where it is to be sewed. 

If the headsize wire is too large or too small, now 
is the time to change it. If the general shape of the 
brim is to be changed, remove the edge wire and trim 
to the required width. If it is to droop or roll, slash 
the brim from the outer edge to the headsize wire 
and lap one-quarter of an inch at the edge. Slash 
in several places if necessary. Sew close to both 
lapped edges of the buckram and cover with a strip 
of muslin or crinoline sewed on flat. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 105 

If a brim is to be made more flat or flaring, slash 
and add V-shaped pieces of buckram. If the head- 
size is entirely too large, this may be remedied by 
dividing the brim into halves. Remove the headsize 
wire and the edge wire, cutting through from front 
to back. Lap and sew; male the headsize wire the 
required size and sew back on the brim. Trim the 
outer edge of the brim and add the edge wire. The 
same thing may be done to the crown. If too large, 
divide into halves and lap the edges until it is the 
required size, or a piece of material may be added 
to make the crown larger. The crown may be low- 
ered by cutting a piece from the base, or raised by 
adding a piece of heavy material at the base. When 
a fabric-covered brim is changed it will be found 
difficult to use the old covering, but it can some- 
times be done. 

Blocking over wire frames — 

If a buckram frame needs changing radically, it 
may be done by blocking over a wire frame made 
for the purpose. The wire frame should have six 
sticks instead of four, and circles not more than one 
inch apart, shaped as desired. Old or new buckram 
neteen, or any coarse material which has been heav- 



106 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

ily starched, may be used. Wet the fabric thor- 
oughly with warm water. 

Block the crown first. Place the material over the 
crown and pull it down until all the wrinkles are re- 
moved, pin closely to the headsize wire all around. 
When dry, mark with a pencil all around close to 
the headsize wire, remove from the frame, cut on 
the pencil mark and sew a headsize wire on the edge. 
If there are marks of the wire to be removed, hold 
a cloth on the inside of the crown and press lightly 
with a hot iron. The brim is managed in the same 
way. Mark at the headsize, cut off at this point one- 
half inch inside the mark, and sew a headsize wire on 
the pencil mark. Mark at the edge wire, cut off at 
the pencil mark, and finish with edge wire. 

New brims for old crowns — 

If the brim of a hat is past renewing, a new one 
may be made, or the wire brim from an old hat may 
be used with a crown of velvet, or any fabric or 
straw. The wire brim may be re-covered with geor- 
gette — an old, half -worn waist will do nicely, using 
the back or sleeves, or any portions that are not too 
badly worn. When a heavier crown is used, the edge 
of a sheer brim should have a fold of material like 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 107 

the crown sewed at the edge, or a row of straw when 
the crown is of straw braid. 

Felt and beaver hats — 

When soiled, clean with gasoline and cornmeal. 
To restore the gloss, rub the hat with a very fine 
piece of sandpaper which has been tacked over a 
small block of wood. Rub with the nap. To com- 
plete the process, remove the sandpaper and sub- 
stitute a piece of velvet. Rub this on a hot iron, 
then on beeswax. Continue the operation of rub- 
bing the hat with the nap until it is restored to its 
original freshness. The crown must be packed with 
cloth before rubbing to keep it solid enough to do 
satisfactory work. If the brim of a felt or beaver 
hat needs cutting down at the edge, mark with a 
piece of chalk where the brim is to be cut. Sew on 
this line with an unthreaded sewing machine sev- 
eral times, and the felt will be cut through and the 
edge broken off at this point. This looks much bet- 
ter than when cut with shears or with a knife. 

Renovation of hat coverings and linings — 

To freshen velvet and raise the pile, brush well 
to remove the dust. With the wrong side down, hold 



108 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

it over the spout of a tea-kettle of rapidly boiling 
water. An assistant is needed to brush it lightly as 
it is passed back and forth over the steam. The 
great force of the steam will raise the pile much 
more quickly than the method of using a damp cloth 
over a hot iron. If the velvet after steaming is 
found to be still too imperfect or faded to be used 
on the hat plain, it may be gathered a half inch 
apart or more and used either on the crown or the 
brim, or it may be mirrored by ironing on the right 
side with a hot iron, always ironing lightly one 
way, using a sweeping motion. Do not let the iron 
rest for a second on the material or it will leave a 
mark. 

TO FRESHEN CREPE FOR MOURNING MILLINERY 

Brush the crepe with a fine brush to remove the 
dust. Clean in gasoline if necessary. Crepe may 
be made to look like new if pinned down smoothly 
and evenly on a padded surf ace, a damp cloth placed 
over it, then a hot iron passed over it without touch- 
ing it, but near enough so that a slight amount of 
steam will dampen the crepe. Remove the cloth 
and allow the crepe to dry in place. Crepe becomes 
shabby-looking quickly if not given the best of 
care. 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 109 

Cleaning, curling, and tinting feathers — 

To clean, immerse the feather in gasoline to which 
has been added a few spoonfuls of cornmeal. Draw 
the feather through the hands several times until it 
is clean ; rinse in clear gasoline and shake in the fresh 
air till dry. A very light-colored or white feather 
may be tinted by dissolving some oil paint in the 
gasoline used for rinsing. 

To curl, draw the flues, a very few at a time, 
over a blunt knife, A plume is rather difficult to 
sew on a hat and produce the desired effect. The 
end of the quill may be sewed very firmly to the hat, 
while the tip of the plume should not be sewed 
close to the hat, otherwise it will look stiff. 

Ribbons — 

If soiled, they may be cleaned in gasoline or soap 
and water, using a brush. Do not rub or wring. 
Hang up to drip dry, or wind tightly around a bot- 
tle and leave to dry. Do not press until after 
twenty-four hours, if cleaned in gasoline. To pro- 
duce extra stiffness, rinse in a weak solution of 
sugar and water. It is also very easy to change the 
color of ribbons by using any of the commercial 
cold dyes. 



110 MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 

Flowers — 

If flowers are faded, they may be touched up 
with water-color. If they are pink, rouge may be 
used effectively. If the edges are much frayed, trim 
them slightly with the shears. Green leaves may be 
dipped in hot paraffine to restore their gloss, or 
pressed with a warm iron without paraffine. Even 
very imperfect flowers may be made to look well if 
veiled with maline or georgette. 

Quills — 

Quills are sometimes improved by passing them 
between the thumb and finger on which a small 
amount of vaseline or oil has been placed. A quill 
may be curved by holding it over the spout of a tea- 
kettle of rapidly boiling water. Place a dull knife 
on the underside and press the quill hard enough to 
make a sharp dent. Do this every half inch. If the 
quill is sufficiently steamed this may be accomplished 
easily, and the result is permanent. 

Wings 

Loose feathers should be glued in place and the 
wing covered with maline or a hair net of the same 
color. Wings may be covered with a coat of shellac 



MAKE YOUR OWN HATS 111 

which stiffens them and gives them a very glossy 
look. 

Lace — 

Most laces may be washed in warm, soapy water. 
Press gently in the hands — do not rub. Press the 
water out after having rinsed the lace well in warm 
water. Shake gently and pin down smoothly on a 
sheet, being careful to stretch and pin each scallop 
in place. Allow it to dry. If necessary press slightly 
with a warm iron on the wrong side. Some laces are 
greatly improved by pressing. 

Malines — 

Malines may be used to good advantage, even if 
parts are badly worn and faded. Place a thin, damp 
cloth over them and press with a warm iron. Allow 
to dry thoroughly before removing from the ironing- 
board. 

THE EXD 



CAMBRIDGE . MASSACHUSETTS 



